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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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Determining anode voltage of unknown tube

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dmg
Sun May 30 2010, 01:52AM Print
dmg Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627
Ive got this small tube, and after finding out a little bit about the pinout (found the heater, which I belive to be directly heated) however, this tube has no part number, no markings at all, at one point they where probably there, but now they are gone from age, I had an idea to try to follow the anode connection and apply variable voltage from a limited supply up to 200VDC, but before I risk it, Id like to hear some of your opinions and inputs, to either a better method of figuring out the voltage, or if anyone knows the range of the voltage ratings for a tube like this.
(if I helps, it came from a 220V furnace control unit)
1275184331 2628 FT0 Tuber 001

1275184331 2628 FT0 Tuber 002

1275184331 2628 FT0 Tuber 003


EDIT: nevermind everyone, Ive figured this out a little bit after I post this, turns out that on the underside of the frame, the part number of the tube was scratched,
this thing is a dual triode part number 12AX7
and it is also indirectly heated
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Myke
Sun May 30 2010, 02:31AM
Myke Registered Member #540 Joined: Mon Feb 19 2007, 07:49PM
Location: MIT
Posts: 969
Normally you can tell what sort of tube you have by looking at the internal structure. If the tube's indirectly heated, you will see the cathode on top and if it's directly heated, you will see the filament or the lack of cathode connection. It's a triode if there is only one pair of grid posts (the things surrounding the cathode supporting the grid). It's a tetrode if there are two pairs. It's a pentode if there are two pairs and two metal tabs or just three pairs of grid supports. Sometimes you can find the pinout of the tube by following the element connections down to the base. The 12AX7 is a very common dual triode (as you have found).
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Proud Mary
Sun May 30 2010, 07:34AM
Proud Mary Registered Member #543 Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
The data sheet for General Electric's take on 12AX7 even has a pre-calculated component value table and a recommended circuit diagram, so you don't even have to do any calculation to use it as a resistance-capacitor coupled voltage amplifier if you don't want to.

Link2

A peek at the characteristic curves in the data sheet shows that useful, fairly linear, operation for 12AX7 begins at about 50V anode voltage, though 100V is the recommended minimum. You could get it to perform after a fashion with as little as 25V, and maybe less, on the anode.

Be sure to put it in a screening can if you use it as a high gain amplifier - which means a voltage gain of 50 or so in this case - or it will pick up EMI, directly demodulate strong local signals, start to oscillate as a protest against sloppy wiring, and other mischief.

Think of it as two completely separate triodes in the same envelope, rather than the very common double triode with common kathode, which has far more limited options. You can have a lot of fun with a versatile little valve like this. smile
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dmg
Sun May 30 2010, 04:52PM
dmg Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627
Also, on the same board with that tube, ive found another, its 12BH7A tube

datasheet if anyone is interested: Link2


1275238342 2628 FT90125 Tubeboard

1275238342 2628 FT90125 Controlpanel
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Proud Mary
Sun May 30 2010, 06:07PM
Proud Mary Registered Member #543 Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
The -A suffix denotes a special heater warm up feature to integrate the valve into the series heater chains almost universally used in domestic televisions, except for the very early years. The idea was to delay the operation of the valve by a few seconds, so that it didn't start doing its thing until all the other valves were ready.

Its main role seems to have been as a vertical deflection amplifier, so you could get some big swings in the anode voltage if you wanted to.

In Tung-Sol's 12BH7 data sheet, they even throw in their recommended vertical deflection amplifier circuit, and you'll see that you could wire both triodes in parallel and substitiute a step-up transformer for the step-down transformer in the anode circuit if you wanted to, without having to make many other circuit changes.

Link2
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radiotech
Sun May 30 2010, 06:44PM
radiotech Registered Member #2463 Joined: Wed Nov 11 2009, 03:49AM
Location:
Posts: 1546
Interesting relay on that controller; also the contacts on the sequencer are rated to switch the primary of the ignition transformer and the fan motor.

Tou have enough parts on the board to make a preamp for a guitar.

What do you think would happen to the furnace if the 12BH7 tube and 12AX7 were exchanged by mistake?
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