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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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Flame polishing lexan

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dmg
Mon May 24 2010, 09:57PM Print
dmg Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627
I need some help here,

Is there a difference between flame polishing lexan and acrylic?

when I try to flame polish lexan, it goes clear, but sometimes I get bubbles forming on some places,
so I wonder how to prevent bubble build up?

I was polishing it with a butane torch, with about a 1 inch flame, letting the tip of the flame barely touch the plastic.. is this too close? or should I just move faster?

Thanks, any help is appretiated.
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doctor electrons
Tue May 25 2010, 02:19AM
doctor electrons Registered Member #2390 Joined: Sat Sept 26 2009, 02:04PM
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 381
I remember i used to work at a place that did that some years back. I never did it,but
I am pretty sure the torch they used was nitrogen and oxygen. There was no color to the flame and it polished
the material beautifully. Their products were made of numerous plastics including lexan and acrylic. Hope that helps!
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dmg
Tue May 25 2010, 02:42AM
dmg Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627
well, at the moment I only have propane and butane available (I have oxyacetaline, but come on, that stuff will kill the plastic)

I just wonder how to get rid of these bubbles..
note in picture two how they form near the edges.
1274755325 2628 FT89750 Lexanpiece

1274755325 2628 FT89750 Lexan Back
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Dr. H.
Tue May 25 2010, 01:58PM
Dr. H. Registered Member #931 Joined: Mon Jul 30 2007, 05:25PM
Location: Bulgaria
Posts: 486
Good day sir

i have experience with acrylic only and here is what I've learned:

there are acrylics that tolerate the flame for longer (the surfave melts, but takes longer for bubbles to form). It is much easier to polish those because they need much less preparation (sanding). I also have some big sheats of plexy that will form bubbles almost imediatelly after melting. The cure for this is to use first rough sanfpaper (I use 160) and after that - finner sadpaper - (I use 400) - make the surface as smoot as possible. After that you have to be pretty quick with the flame. Look it under such an angle that when the surface melts you be able to clearly see it and move on. If bubbles form - you can sand the spot and re-flame it again.

Bubbles ususally form when you try to polish some big scratches, without sanding them before that.

Cheers smile
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IntraWinding
Tue May 25 2010, 04:46PM
IntraWinding Registered Member #2261 Joined: Mon Aug 03 2009, 01:19AM
Location: London, UK
Posts: 581
This mentions additives for PMMA that is to be heat worked:

A small amount of acrylate comonomers are routinely used in PMMA grades destined for heat processing, since this stabilizes the polymer to depolymerization ("unzipping") during processing.
Link2

Perhaps that explains different samples reacting differently to flame polishing.

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doctor electrons
Wed May 26 2010, 01:44AM
doctor electrons Registered Member #2390 Joined: Sat Sept 26 2009, 02:04PM
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 381
Heres something cool! If you brush the edges of youre material with something like "polycrylic"
it will dry crystal clear and will get rid of those nasty tool marks! May take a few coats but it will look great!!
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dmg
Sat May 29 2010, 06:02AM
dmg Registered Member #2628 Joined: Fri Jan 15 2010, 12:23AM
Location:
Posts: 627
Thank you for your help everyone,

Ive got it fairly clear using the above methods, and I still get a few bubbles here and there, but it is not the flaw of the method, but the flaw of me. (held flame too long, time to do more sanding)

more practise and I should get it relativly neat.
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