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Registered Member #1525
Joined: Mon Jun 09 2008, 12:16AM
Location: America
Posts: 294
Can someone explain by what method this FB primary was wound?
The circuit diagram shoes the FB as having a 3.5 + 3.5 primary but I count 14 winds on the primary. I've tried several things but I'm doing it wrong cus my ZVS acts funny and I'm pretty sure its cus I'm doing the primary wrong. This is the last step before my project is done so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Registered Member #543
Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
Saz43 wrote ...
Can someone explain by what method this FB primary was wound?
The circuit diagram shoes the FB as having a 3.5 + 3.5 primary but I count 14 winds on the primary. I've tried several things but I'm doing it wrong cus my ZVS acts funny and I'm pretty sure its cus I'm doing the primary wrong. This is the last step before my project is done so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Clearly, the constructor has not followed, or has deliberately changed, the turns recipe given on the circuit diagram.
To start afresh - take a piece of insulated wire of suitable current capacity, and of sufficent length for your seven turns, plus a bit extra for connections.
Fold the wire exactly in half to determine its centre. Remove the insulation for 1cm on either side of this midpoint, so you have 2cm of bare wire.
Twizzle the bare wire round like a dreadlock, and solder it up into a spiggot to which you should attach your centre tap lead. Insulate the connection with heat shrink if you have it, or a bit of ordinary insulating tape if not. Now wind on the seven turns all in the same direction, and having the tap you have just made as its centre.
Try to make the spaces between adjacent windings as even as possible, because this type of device needs electrical and magnetic symmetry to work at its best.
Registered Member #95
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:57PM
Location: Norway
Posts: 1308
To quote myself:
The primary was made with two 18AWG wire strands wound in bifilar, then around the core and finally centertapped. Just remember that the end of one wire joind the start of the other, and this is your center-tap. It makes sense once you've done it, and gives near perfect centertapped primaries. At any rate I wound 7 turns, which gives 3.5 + 3.5 primary turns.
Not very clear I'll admit, you have to try yourself before it makes sense. Proud Mary's explanation is exactly how I did it, so between our explanations you should make it work. As for the picture, I used three or four different pieces of wire joined in various places to further complicate matters. The correct number of primary turns is 7+7, I made a mistake when writing the webpage by thinking the seven turns were halved again.
Registered Member #1525
Joined: Mon Jun 09 2008, 12:16AM
Location: America
Posts: 294
Thanks. What I ended up doing was getting a red, yellow, and blue strand of wire and copying exactly what I saw in the picture, and it worked.
Uzzors, in case you're interested, your circuit charged my 15.6mF cap bank to 385V (1156J) at about 33 watts. I did, however, have to add 2 extra layers on the secondary (so 6 layers of 60 turns instead of 4). More turns on the secondary made my power supply shutoff (over current) and fewer causes the max charging voltage to fall to ~330V. I assume this has something to do with the fact that I'm charging a different sized bank than the one you used.
Proud Mary, thanks for explaining the logic behind it.
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Center-tap winding Q
