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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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Myvu goggles and video overlay?

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Conundrum
Sat Feb 06 2010, 01:40PM Print
Conundrum Registered Member #96 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
Hi all.
I am currently working on a way to overlay data onto "real life" video.
Has anyone here managed to do this?

current schematic uses a 320*240 B/W camera and PIC 12F683 with a slight adjustment (27MHz external clock from module) so that the video streams synchronise.

the goggles have been modified so that each eye now has RGB LEDs where any combination can be enabled.
this allows for full colour 3-D or multiple cameras to be used.

the current issue is getting the MC1377 to work without major headaches as even with a single clk module (salvaged from a mobile phone base station PCB) the frames become out of sync very quickly.

i have two sets of these so if anything goes wrong it is not a problem.

am also working on using one of those IR thermometers with a pair of front surface mirrors on pager motors to allow a sort of "heat vision" using the same video overlay trick. again, the problem here is how to convert this data to video and overlay it correctly.

i did discover by accident that the sync problem is somewhat mitigated if the transistor on the "poor man's scope" is replaced with an LED, as for some reason the voltage drop is enough to get a stable lock.
this is less than ideal however as there is now a vertical bar down the screen on the RHS.
regards, -A
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Steve Conner
Sat Feb 06 2010, 02:48PM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Hey Conundrum

The Amiga used to have an input for slaving its graphics chip clock to video, for this very purpose. You could buy a genlock module that would extract the clock from incoming video, sync the Amiga up to it, and overlay the computer graphics onto the video. There was a MC1377 in there amongst other things.

But since you have access to the guts of the camera, probably the best thing to do is tap off the camera's clock crystal to run the PIC. If it's not 27MHz, you may need to start with a different frequency and divide it down. But if the camera and the character generator are running off the same clock, there's no way they can drift out of sync.
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Conundrum
Sat Feb 06 2010, 05:38PM
Conundrum Registered Member #96 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
heh... thats not a bad idea.

i was looking into using some clever code that synchronises by using a tap off the camera's hsync pulse to adjust the PIC clock using a tuning diode.

didn't get very far with it due to problems with the diode interfering with the oscillator starting up.

one idea that *may* work is to install a transistor to shunt the 27MHz module's output to ground for a set time (a few instructions) if the clocks drifted out of sync by more than a certain amount...
this could be done every time the buttons are checked for example, without much modification.

-A
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