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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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rp181
Tue May 12 2009, 03:37AM Print
rp181 Registered Member #1062 Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
hey, for a CNC project i am working on (still in planning stages, in the process of CAD), I was wondering what kind of methods there are to hold the mill bit, up to 1/4". Does anyone know of any suppliers for 1/4" keyed or keyless chucks? If you have someother attachment method, that would work great too.

BTW, I am not buying now, but will in the future, so if you have one, post it up, i may buy depending on price.
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Cesiumsponge
Tue May 12 2009, 04:35AM
Cesiumsponge Registered Member #397 Joined: Wed Apr 19 2006, 12:56AM
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 125
Hello,

I would NOT suggest using a chuck to hold end mills. Drill chucks tend to have strange three-lobed deflection and the jaws on a chuck have a hard enough time clamping on drills when drilling. They aren't very precise and they're not rigid at all. Adding a side-load will cause it to slip for sure and lose your z-axis tool offset, plus chip your end mill from the chatter and ruin your part. The contact area on a drill chuck is nonexistent. It's three small contact patches, and usually at the tip of the fingers.

Also, drill chucks will ruin drill bits if they slip at all (and they do!). End mills require even more clamping force so a chuck won't cut it. Collets won't ruin your tooling if it slips by chance. It'll only gall the surface a wee bit. Collets also have superior clamping force compared to three jaw jacob's chuck because of the huge contact area. These should be able to handle milling with a 1/4" end mill for sure, even 2-flute end mills. If you're going to hog stuff, it's best to get a dedicated 1/4" toolholder with a setscrew and grind flats on your tooling for the setscrew. These won't slip unless you crash the tool into your part, and you've got much bigger problems at that point.

If you want good, affordable accuracy, go with an ER collet system. There are enough overseas manufacturers now that you can buy the holder or shank and a set of collets for a reasonable price and they'll be plenty good enough for hobbyist use. The collets have the least amount of runout and they're self-centering and precision ground. Usually TIR is within .0005" even on India/China made sets.

Since I don't know what sort of tooling interface system you'll use (DIY, Morse taper, etc), its difficult to give more specific advice.

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rp181
Tue May 12 2009, 12:14PM
rp181 Registered Member #1062 Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
A collet is like the system used on a dremel, and similar to a xacto knife, right? I will probably be using round shank, and maybe grind a partial hex.

A collet was my first choice, but it seemed that a chuck would hold better, guess I was wrong.
Here is the motor I am using:
Link2
If you download the second PDF on that page, 550PM, it is the motor that has 14.4v nominal. It offers nearly 20k RPM at no load (confirmed yesterday with a oscilloscope, 1 ms between contacts, 3 contacts). The motor was taken from a cordless drill. The main use was going to be PCB milling/drilling, but I wan't to be able to use it for other stuff if the need arises.
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Cesiumsponge
Tue May 12 2009, 11:09PM
Cesiumsponge Registered Member #397 Joined: Wed Apr 19 2006, 12:56AM
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 125
The dremel and xacto collets use the same clamping idea as the standardized ER collets. They indeed grip much better. CNC machines don't use chucks for toolholding. The exception is if you're manually drilling on a Bridgeport. Some people still use chucks for drills on a Bridgeport because it's quick and cheap.

Collets for machine work are centerless ground and the assemblies are balanced for high RPM use. A drill chuck isn't going to be balanced at 20,000RPM. You also have much less toolholder clearance using a bulky drill chuck. Properly sized collet systems for the tool are smallish and give you more shoulder clearance.

Something like this ER11 set can be incorporated relatively easily since its a raw shank (as opposed to being attached to a CAT or Morse taper) : Link2
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