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Registered Member #1438
Joined: Sat Apr 12 2008, 12:57AM
Location: Canada
Posts: 218
Well, after I got a car grade KENWOOD amplifier, Car stero, and two MTX subwoofer, I've been looking for a power supply other than a car battery. I went all over the internet to look for an alternate way of powering them ie, wall plug.
I've tried my old CPU power supply but nothing happened.
Could anyone give me other suggestion to power this sweet amp/sub?
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
To make the power supply work correctly you need to short the ps_on pin to one of the grounds. Generally if you look in the big 24 pin connector you need to short the green wire to one of the black ones.
You might also find that it is a good idea to add a large capacitor to the output of the supply (one of those .5F caps that are put in big installations) might be a good idea if you are planning on running large amounts of power, because unlike a car battery if you try to draw more than the rated current in a power supply it will shut down briefly, which will screw with your music.
Registered Member #1438
Joined: Sat Apr 12 2008, 12:57AM
Location: Canada
Posts: 218
in my case, there are twenty pins with the CD power supply and other type of extra connectors. I'm currently looking in to the pins and it seems that there are seven black cables and one green cable attached to the twenty pin connector.
Registered Member #538
Joined: Sun Feb 18 2007, 08:33PM
Location: Finland
Posts: 181
hydraliskdragon wrote ...
in my case, there are twenty pins with the CD power supply and other type of extra connectors. I'm currently looking in to the pins and it seems that there are seven black cables and one green cable attached to the twenty pin connector.
All the black ones are ground, it doesnt matter which one you ground the green wire to. You also need some load on the 5V line to make the outputs stable.
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
You might also find that it is a good idea to add a large capacitor to the output of the supply (one of those .5F caps that are put in big installations) might be a good idea if you are planning on running large amounts of power, because unlike a car battery if you try to draw more than the rated current in a power supply it will shut down briefly, which will screw with your music.
The problem is that crappy voltage mode power supply might just trip out overcurrent with so large capacitance on it's output. Normally the soft start helps preventing that but it's not designed for so large filter capacitances. Soft-start slope may be prolonged though.
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Your CPU power supply needs a minimum load on one (or more) of the outputs for it to work. Usually on the +5V. Look up the datasheet for supply, or it might even be written on the supply.
Also, computer CPUs aren't very good for step load responses (i.e. big bass hits), therefore, you can easily damage them.
Registered Member #1438
Joined: Sat Apr 12 2008, 12:57AM
Location: Canada
Posts: 218
Dr. Shock wrote ...
Your CPU power supply needs a minimum load on one (or more) of the outputs for it to work. Usually on the +5V. Look up the datasheet for supply, or it might even be written on the supply.
Also, computer CPUs aren't very good for step load responses (i.e. big bass hits), therefore, you can easily damage them.
Well, if a CPU Unit isnt the best choice to go with, is there another power source that I could try?
Registered Member #1497
Joined: Thu May 22 2008, 05:24AM
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 801
You should probably place a large cap in-line with the amp. Most pro-audio/touring grade amps have very beefy caps to give the surge current necessary. Similarly there are 1, 2, and 3 farad caps meant specifically to power car stereo amps.
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
aonomus wrote ...
You should probably place a large cap in-line with the amp. Most pro-audio/touring grade amps have very beefy caps to give the surge current necessary. Similarly there are 1, 2, and 3 farad caps meant specifically to power car stereo amps.
Of course, its all about the money.
What I was saying, if you connect a farad of capacitance to output of an ATX power supply, it will turn off as if it was a short. It would need to be pre-charged resistively or via slow soft start before running.
And even then, I'm not sure whether a capacitor would actually make any difference. After the capacitor is suddenly discharged by a step response the PS would have to charge it up back, which would again result in PS output voltage being pulled under the reference (which is an inherently bad condition for voltage-mode control) and OCD would trip due to current integration.
So the capacitor may not actually make any difference. (?)
You can try it, and tell us how it went.
Current mode control would be required in order to avoid these problems, which I never seen in a PC SMPS. Some of those high power, expensive models may have it built in though.
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Powering Car Stero and amplifier
