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Registered Member #30
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
The cap will probably be for running, not just starting. Sync motors have two windings inside, one powered straight from the line, the other powered through the capacitor to give it a phase shift. From your ohm readings, the black wire is the common, and the two windings come out on white and red. So, one possible hookup might be:
Black to AC supply neutral White to AC supply hot Red to AC supply hot via 25uF motor run cap
Of course, I could have it wrong, maybe red goes straight to hot, and white goes via the capacitor. The way to check is to load it (lean on the shaft with a lump of wood or something) and check that you can get the current draw up to the nameplate value before you lose sync. If the cap is on the wrong winding, the motor probably won't make its rated power.
Registered Member #1125
Joined: Fri Nov 16 2007, 09:13PM
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 62
well there was virtually no difference between the way I suggested and you suggestion steve HOWEVER No-Load current was lower my way The most load I could put on had a lower current draw my way Motor would stall at start my way
I was still unable to cause it to loose with a block of wood, maybe ill try again later... any good way to tell syncronism? I dont have any magnetically ballisted florecents so I guess thats out.
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Sync Motor Help
