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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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Mounting an SMT component

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Eric
Fri Oct 26 2007, 08:44AM Print
Eric Registered Member #69 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 07:42AM
Location:
Posts: 116
I have a board I want to solder an SMT socket to, not having dealt with SMTs I'd like to know what the best way to do this is. I popped off the flash chip and now want to put a socket in it's place. Soldering each pin doesn't seem like an option since they'd be hard to get to under the socket. Any ideas?

board in question

Seems like a hot air rework gun would be useful but I'm afraid I'd blow all the other smts off their spots. 2 cents to whoever can identify the board.
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Overclocked
Fri Oct 26 2007, 12:31PM
Overclocked Registered Member #1056 Joined: Thu Oct 11 2007, 11:15PM
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 27
Ahh, SMD. First Cover the pad with a little bit of solder (by little, I mean Just until its shiny and it covers the whole pad. Do this to both Pads. Place your part and hold it. You can hold it with your hand IF your careful with your iron, but you can hold it with something else. Ive noticed SMD parts dont conduct heat well, but the pads do (unline through hole in which the whole part heats up).

Once your part is held it, Put your iron on the pad and let it melt the solder that is on there. As it warms up add just enough solder to keep it down. The once its soldered to one pad, the rest is cake work.
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CompWiz
Fri Oct 26 2007, 01:33PM
CompWiz Registered Member #1038 Joined: Mon Oct 01 2007, 08:02PM
Location:
Posts: 96
Is it a DSL modem?
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...
Fri Oct 26 2007, 02:21PM
... Registered Member #56 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
The thing with those gull wing packages is taht it is really hard to get a soldering iron to touch the pins at all, let alone get a decent solder joint.

If you have the tools, I would recomend using hot air 'pencil.

As to the board itself, judging by the chip that has viop in big letters on it, 1 eithernet and 2 phone connectors, it is some type of VoIP device. And consdering that Agere got bought by Ortel/Emcore a few yeras ago (I should know since I work there wink )it is probably circa 2000ish.
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Tetrafluoroethane
Fri Oct 26 2007, 02:34PM
Tetrafluoroethane Registered Member #127 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Cincinnati, OH - USA
Posts: 44
You need a steady hand, flux, solder paste, and one of those butane torches with the 'heat blower' attachment. Flux pens help for this and I use a Kester #951 pen.

1) Make sure the contacts on the socket and board are clean and don't have any excess solder on them from previous work.

2) Coat the pads on the board with a generous amounts of flux.

3) Run a bead of solder paste across all the pads. Don't worry about getting it on each pin individually, just run a line across the entire row. A fairly thin line. Use your discretion based on the size of the pads.

4) Place the socket onto the pads. Perfect alignment isn't critical since as the solder melts it should suck the pins into place.

5) Fire up the torch. Start on one side and heat the pads. You must move quickly so as soon as you see the solder start to melt, move that torch. If you cannot see the pads from the outside of the socket, you can try soldering from the inside. Be prepared to destroy the first socket. cheesey

6) Depending on the flux you used, follow the cleaning instructions.

I hope this helps.
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Electroholic
Fri Oct 26 2007, 06:03PM
Electroholic Registered Member #191 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 02:01AM
Location: Esbjerg Denmark
Posts: 720
if you snap the middle part of the socket, it would be easier to hand solder. its doable.
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Eric
Fri Oct 26 2007, 10:52PM
Eric Registered Member #69 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 07:42AM
Location:
Posts: 116
Electroholic wrote ...

if you snap the middle part of the socket, it would be easier to hand solder. its doable.

That's a pretty good idea... looks like without a hot air gun that's what I'll have to do. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
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Conundrum
Sun Oct 28 2007, 09:41AM
Conundrum Registered Member #96 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
I always use solder flux. Had major problems without it, the solder just will not flow correctly with even minor oxidisation.

The best sort is the water soluble one, this can be cleaned easily without acetone or other nasty solvents.

Even though it is not recommended, my personal favourite is Fluxite flux paste, this works when nothing else does. So far I am up to five repaired pendrives this way, as well as numerous other devices.

The only time it ever failed was when the device being soldered had other issues, such as a blown controller (whoops)

Can supply some in a syringe if anyone needs it, for cost of postage.

Also strongly recommend the use of a power magnifier with light, best lenses can be obtained from broken scanners :) nice field of view and excellent quality.

regards, -A
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ConKbot of Doom
Mon Oct 29 2007, 05:40AM
ConKbot of Doom Registered Member #509 Joined: Sat Feb 10 2007, 07:02AM
Location:
Posts: 329
Conundrum wrote ...

I always use solder flux. Had major problems without it, the solder just will not flow correctly with even minor oxidisation.

The best sort is the water soluble one, this can be cleaned easily without acetone or other nasty solvents.

Even though it is not recommended, my personal favourite is Fluxite flux paste, this works when nothing else does. So far I am up to five repaired pendrives this way, as well as numerous other devices.

The only time it ever failed was when the device being soldered had other issues, such as a blown controller (whoops)

Can supply some in a syringe if anyone needs it, for cost of postage.

Also strongly recommend the use of a power magnifier with light, best lenses can be obtained from broken scanners :) nice field of view and excellent quality.

regards, -A

Only thing about water soluble flux is you have to make sure you do wash the board... Mild activated rosin you can let go with no wash, but water soluble fluxes are harsher. Other then that, they are great. smile
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