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Registered Member #540
Joined: Mon Feb 19 2007, 07:49PM
Location: MIT
Posts: 969
This schematic is from the book "Electricity And Electronics". I was wondering if this works and if it does then could I sub the TIP 31 for a 2N3055? The equation for the resistor that isn't R1 is 600mV/desired charging current in mA = resistor in ohms.
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3140
That circuit looks very poor. Q1 needs to pass the main charging current (e.g. 1.5A) R1 has to pass at least (charging current)/(Q1 current-gain) e.g. 1.5A/30 = 50mA So VR1 = 1k x 50m = 50V !!!!! (and 50V x 50mA = 2.5Watts)
Use a high-gain darlington for Q1 or a mosfet or an igbt. OR search for a circuit diagram that someone has actually used successfully.
What do you want to charge, and from what power source?
Registered Member #540
Joined: Mon Feb 19 2007, 07:49PM
Location: MIT
Posts: 969
I wanted to charge a 12V 7AH lead acid battery. I would use a 14.4V power supply using a rewound MOT. I tried to find something better but I only found car battery chargers.
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3140
I have a 12V 7AH SLA (now renamed VRLA) battery, for general purpose use. it is just the latest of many, I like to always have one available.
Good maintenance is worth it, Go to the Yuasa website (or the one for your battery) and look at the specifications for a charger!
The 'fully charged' voltage is temperature dependent, try not to over- or under-charge the battery. A simple transformer - rectifier - (optional capacitor) - resistor will do just fine. Measure voltage with your meter and stop charging when 'full'
Registered Member #30
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
There is a simple circuit you can make using a LM317 regulator as a current source, IIRC.
I use a 6V one of these gel batteries to drive a set of super powered halogen lights for my bike in winter. I always just charged it overnight, off a current limited lab power supply set to 7.2V and 0.5A. On first plugging in, it draws the full 0.5A and pulls the power supply down to 6V, but by the morning the voltage goes up to 7.2V and the current dies away to practically nothing.
It never gets used in summer, so I charge it up every month or two to make sure it doesn't go stale. I got 5 years use out of the last battery before it got too weak to last the ride to work and back, so I guess I was treating it right. I thought that was pretty good for a $20 battery! It was an actual Yuasa brand battery, though. I don't know if the no-brand Chinese ones for ride-on toys are so good.
You could always make a current limited power supply, since it'll be useful for a load of other things. It's probably not a good idea to use a car battery charger, since these little gel batteries aren't as tough as car batteries. It would probably overvolt the battery and boil it dry.
Registered Member #103
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:16PM
Location: Derby, UK
Posts: 845
The first circuit on this page is a much better charger. Probably the one Steve was on about, it has current limiting so it will act as a current source when you're trying to exceed the rated current, but it will act as a voltage regulator when you're under the current set point. That makes it perfect for charging SLAs. I believe you want some kind of voltage regulator really, to prevent the terminal voltage from rising to 'gassing' voltage if you leave it on too long. I'm building that circuit with a switch to switch between 14.4v (for fast/bulk charging) and 13.65v (for continuous trickle charging).
An even simpler charger I'm using at the moment is simply a 7815 regulator with 2 ordinary diodes on the output, to drop the output to about 13.8 volts. That works quite well also. A fully charged SLA will have a terminal voltage of 12.9 volts after it has been taken off charge and left standing for a while.
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