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Registered Member #683
Joined: Sun May 06 2007, 02:00AM
Location:
Posts: 9
I am just getting into electronics and I would like to build exactly the mini boost converter described in this topic (built by WilliamN). I would immensely appreciate it if someone could give me a list of exactly what parts to get (part numbers included) and a clearly labeled, detailed schematic. I have read the entire topic and I don't know exactly what he used and how he put it together. It would help me out so much!
For someone who is just starting out in this field it is very confusing, but I am learning fast. Now that it is summer I can focus more time on improving my knowledge on this subject!
Registered Member #697
Joined: Thu May 10 2007, 12:28PM
Location: Australia
Posts: 22
Sorry I'm not nice enough to do all that.
Site Rules say to do your own research, dont ask for detailed plans or complete schematics... but you know that because you read the rules when you registered. Right?
In that links first post he says where he got the design from, after approx 2 mins of searching google and the coilgun site, heres the link : then he "added a FET driver IC, some TVS diodes and a higher inductance inductor."
For a list of "parts to get (part numbers included)" well thats what your local electronics store's catalouge or a electronic component supplier website is for.
Registered Member #79
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 11:35AM
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 673
Dude, NOBODY's going to give you "planz."
But I've got some free time, so I'll help you out a bit.
R1 and R2 will look something like this You can find them in TVs, VCRs, just about anything. It will say "102" on it. (The first two numbers followed by number of zeros, so 10+ two "0" = 1000 ohms or 1k ohms.
C1, C2, C3, C4... Have a look at these pics.
In this case C1, C2, can be electrolytic, mylar, monolithic, or ceramic (labeled "disc"). The electrolyic will be named "0.1uF" if you can find one, they don't usually come smaller than 1uF. The other ones will be labeled "104" Most small capacitors like this are labeled in Picofarads or "pF." BTW, in order from smallest to biggest; picoFarad (pF), nanoFarad (nF), microFarad (uF), milliFarad (mF) and Farad. 0.1uF equals 100nF which equals 100000pF. So it is labeled just like the resistors. 1+0+0000+pF.
C4 will be labeled "333"
C3 WILL be an electrolytic, and it will be in the region of 1" diameter by 3" tall. You'll probably have to buy this from goldmine or something. Or you could parallel a few of These aren't 250V BTW. You can always find two in a computer PSU. This is the bank you are charging, so you can really use just about any value provided it's rated 250V.
I don't really know how to tell you about L1 unless you have an o'scope or LCR meter. You could just wind a few turns (no more than 20) on a toroid core you stole from a computer monitor and see what happens or just buy one.
For the diode search for 1n4007 at goldmine or mouser, there is a regular one and an ultrafast. Look for the ultrafast in the title, you'll need six in parallel
I figure just about any IGBT rated over 600V would work, even a MOSFET. You could try the big transistor from a TV... But personally, I would just go to punch in the part # for the IGBT on the pic.
Any 555 and 7812 obtained at RadioShack or Goldmine should work. Just make sure they're not surface mount, cause it'll be a butt to solder.
"TVS" stands for "transient voltage supressor" that might help you find the right one. It's pretty much a zener diode on steroids.
Oh, don't run it without the Capacitor bank.
Have fun!
Oh, this is an excellent multimeter for a noob! It is always within 1% of my $200 meter, and pretty forgiving. It runs in striking distance of my telsa coils all the time. And if you pay attention, they drop the price to $20 every so often. About 1x a month it's $30.
Registered Member #683
Joined: Sun May 06 2007, 02:00AM
Location:
Posts: 9
Yeah, I thought I was asking too much!
Thanks for helping me out though. I just get confused by all of the jargon you guys use. Of course I look it all up, but wikipedia and google can only take you so far. One thing I don't understand is where the negative side of the battery is connected to. I see multiple points (white triangles) in the circuit (correct me if I am mistaken) leading to ground, but that's not true ground is it? BTW, I am looking at the schematic posted here by JIM. Instead of a MOSFET (Q1), I am planning on using a transistor. Also, where should I put the TVS diodes?
I have compiled a parts list that I think looks good. I could probably get a lot of the stuff at my local radioshack, but in the interest of getting a good description I entered them in at http://www.digikey.com. The list is attached.
My neighborhood had a garage sale today and I bought a broken printer/scanner for $1. I promptly took it apart and in doing so I found some nice capacitors, diodes, resistors, and a couple inductors. I also found unholy mixtures of dust and ink that were causing it to be "broken" and two very nice steel rods. I would consider it a good day!
Thanks again for your patience and support! ]1181451117_683_FT26612_parts_list.txt[/file]
Registered Member #79
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 11:35AM
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 673
The TVS diodes go across the transistor, pointed toward positive so that they don't flow unless there's an overvolt.
I'll agree that ground is a confusing concept. Ground is simply a region in the circuit that is defined as zero volts. In this schematic, ground is the negative terminal of the battery.
What do you mean "instead of a MOSFET?" A Mosfet is a transistor.
BTW, 5% is usually just fine for the resistors, especially in this circuit.
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