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Registered Member #546
Joined: Fri Feb 23 2007, 11:43PM
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 239
So.... eBay is a great place to buy weird things for cheap... problem is sometimes I don't actually know what I've bought.
normally a google search of a part number or description will turn up something... when it doesn't I'm really glad I found you guys to dump pics on and fish for clues at to what stuff might be.
So for this installment... I present a Fuji 124Y0026C . this came in a box of equipment as part of a grab-box of stuff from ebay. I was after the HeNe tube, but I got several pounds of other stuff as well. I am guessing it is a laser from some sort of imaging device, but I'd like to know a little more about it befoer I go pluging wires into it and looking for sparks.
Any suggestions on where to find more info on this stuff would be appreciated as well.
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
I am pretty decent at making mystery lasers work, and while that thing does look like it might have a laser buried deep within, I have my doubts.
Could you provide some more pics?
You might as well start carefully pulling it apart, start by removing the large aluminum device near the board, and unscrew the back panel, and then post some pics of what is in it.
Registered Member #546
Joined: Fri Feb 23 2007, 11:43PM
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 239
Ok, so I opened the Al block and there's deff a diode laser of some design behind a spherical lens that looks to be coated glass (or crystal of some sort)
Mitsubishi J6E 74 57
Several google and Digikey and Rell searches later I have no info on the diode.
As requested more pics:
Any suggestions on how to go about testing this thing for power?
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
now we are talking!
To test that laser isn't all that hard, but it requires some decent gear to work well.
Basically, since it is probably IR, your best bet would be to point it into a digicam for all testing.
Then, you need to find which pins are the laser and photodiodes. The best for this is a current and voltage limited supply. If not, 2 aa batteries in series with a 100r variable resistor should also work well. Never go above 3v when testing, you can fry the laser or photodiode uber easy with >3v.
Start with the power supply set for 10ma, 0v. Then connect the + to the pin connected to the case of the laser (which usually is +) nd then slowly give it voltage. If at about 2v it suddenly pegs the current limit, you found the diode. If not, it is either backwards or you have the photodiode. Try different combinations until it works. NOTE-be sure that you turn the supply to 0v, and it is puting out 0v before touching it to the laser. Also, make sure that the connections are secure. This is because the supply has a capacitor on the output, so if it has 3v it will give the laser a burst of high current before the current limit kicks in--which will fry the diode.
Then, take a dmm set for the lowest current setting (you will need to read .1ma at least) and try connecting it to from the pin connected to the case to the pin that is not the laser, and give the laser a little juice. You should see a tiny bit of current (although it could only be a few microamps).
Once you have the laser and photodiode pins found, you are in business. Now you can slowly give the laser more current. How much is up to you. Usually, you can slowly turn it up until the power stops to rise (watch the photodiode current), then back it off 10%, but some diode fry before that happens.
Note, the laser may emit a dim red beam, but it is probably IR, so it is many times brighter than it seems.... If you put >10ma into it, consider the laser like a loaded gun. You can probably take a hit to the eye (especially if it isn't culminated) but is it really woth the risk?
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