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Registered Member #2099
Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
This is about porous bronze bushings surrounded by felt oil wick. Mine are in a kitchen exhaust fan motor, too neglected & gummed up to start. Here it is after being cleaned inside and out.
The tail-end bearing cover is completely closed on the outside, and looks sort of like this stock picture on the inside:
After the bearing areas were soaked in WD-40, the shaft spins freely. But compressed air applied around the bushing produced not a single bubble at the flared ends of oiler tubes. And WD-40 is not a motor lubricant.
Any hints on how to clear the tubes and/or remove the WD-40 from felt, before re-oiling? I'm about to learn how much a replacement motor (probably with inferior bearings) costs over the counter. A whole new exhaust fan (with inferior, open-frame shaded pole motor) is only $80 at regular hardware store.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
on my CNC milling machine, i had a bearing that couldnt be replaced, and so had to be cleaned out. i used a plastic, sort of deformable funnel from the kitchen. made it fit the round face of one side of the bearing. i sealed the other end, and put a bearing nipple some where on the funnel, then a grease gun pushed in some white lithium grease, to the point it was bursting out the other side quite vigorously. you need a seal, but it doesnt need to be perfect.
id use a small funnel, or simialar piece of plastic, as you dont want to push half a tube of grease into a tiny bearing. in your case maybe a rubber automotive hose cinched shut at one end.
not sure if you plan for grease of heavy weight oil.
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
I don't think it's worth soaking in a solvent, then waiting for the solvent to evaporate.
I'd just get as much oil in there as possible. Any WD40 in there will thin the oil and allow it to penetrate better. The WD40 will partially evaporate anyway. Just re-oil it again in the not too distant future. Semi-regular maintenance/oiling is what's required here
Registered Member #230
Joined: Tue Feb 21 2006, 08:01PM
Location: Gracefield lower Hutt
Posts: 284
I dont know where yesterdays reply went sintered bearings are cleaned with a good degreaser such as methylene chloride (di-chloromethane) or Di-ethyl ether reoiling requires the shaft to be out . You block the bottom hole with one finger and fill with a good light oil Mobil 1 0-W50 and press another finger on the top. this forces the oil into the sinter. All old motor mechanics knew this for starter motor bushes and flywheel clutch pinion bushes
Registered Member #2099
Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
Thanks for l the suggestions, esp. johnf with how to make oil pressure with fingertips. The dialog confirmed link with same individual on another forum, so it was no surprise to learn that Lower Hutt is in NZ.
The form factor has been popular since before the rise of Nazi party. I found a substitute motor new, over the counter, for under $40 including tax. New one has case 1/2 inch longer. Dealer had one matching the original case length, but we plugged it into check rotation direction & it was wrong.
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Fan motor re-oiling?
