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4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
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Oil submersion of flyback transformer

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Dragon64
Fri Dec 20 2013, 05:50PM Print
Dragon64 Registered Member #1438 Joined: Sat Apr 12 2008, 12:57AM
Location: Canada
Posts: 218
Hello, I'm wanting to submerge my flyback transformer in mineral oil but curious about a few things.


-Is it worth submerging the flyback transformer in oil?
This transformer will be use a ZVS driver to power a multiplier at about 200W @10kV for about 3-5 minute duration. I'm hoping that the oil will both keep the transformer cool and insulate it. It will also be vacuumed to remove as much air bubbles as possible.

-Does mineral oil have any corrosive effect on metals of the flyback transformer such as copper, iron, or the winding coatings over a short or long duration time?
I have no way to determine the type of coating on the winding but a picture of the transformer in the attachment.

-Will mineral oil dissolve hot glue (ethylene-vinyl acetate) over a long duration?
I did read that ethylene-vinyl acetate is dissolved by organic solvents but not quite sure how well mineral oil will dissolve it over a long time period. (I applied hot glue to the winding while testing and I'm not sure if I can completely remove them without breaking the winding.)
1387561806 1438 FT0 Fb2

1387561806 1438 FT0 Fb3
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Sulaiman
Fri Dec 20 2013, 06:07PM
Sulaiman Registered Member #162 Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3141
Although I think that the mineral oil will eventually dissolve/corrode the varnish etc.
it may not,
it doesn't really matter as
I expect that you will kill the transformer long before the oil causes problems cheesey
and if you vacuum the transformer before introducing the oil
any moisture will be evaporated out and replaced with oil,
and I think (not sure) that oil would be better than air for reducing surface tracking,
certainly better for heat transfer and corona suppression,
worth the risk I think.

P.S. I just looked more carefully at your photo ...
the metal bracket and screw form a shorted turn, both electrically and magnetically
some of flux would flow through the lossy high permeability iron/steel
rather than the secondary air gap and coil.

You will probably observe a significant change in operating frequency (higher)
and potential power output (higher) if you just remove the metal bracket.
If it's aluminium then I think that the magnetic and electrical shorted turn is not significant..

Before you commit to oil you should consider the primary winding;

pvc is a poor conductor of heat and there will be a lot of heat in the primary
MUCH more than in the secondary.

bi-filar primary windings seem to me to reduce 'spurious' oscillations
especially compared to two separate windings with an air gap in between.

try to not wind directly over the air gap as it increases losses in the wires.
(e.g. I see this a lot in high power uv lamp inverter transformers etc.)
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Hydron
Fri Dec 20 2013, 09:36PM
Hydron Registered Member #30656 Joined: Tue Jul 30 2013, 02:40AM
Location: UK
Posts: 208
Doesn't look like a shorted turn to me, for starters it's in line with the magnetic flux rather than perpendicular to it, and secondly the plate at the bottom looks to be phenolic or something non-conductive, so it's not even shorted in the first place.
Edit: If the screws going down through the secondary/primary are steel and that is where the air gap is, then as mentioned in the post above it could magnetically bypass some of the airgap and cause issues. By the look of the bracket this is as designed though, so I'm assuming it's not an issue. I have seen other flybacks pulled from equipment with similar designs and bolts going past airgaps, so it must work acceptably in at least some applications. In any case, it's not a shorted turn, that would result from a conductive loop around the core, which is not the happening here.

I'd be suprised if transformer oil causes any issues with the winding coatings, seeing as it's designed for this very purpose.
It quite possibly will make the hot glue unhappy though, make sure if the glue comes off or dissolves that the windings won't float around and touch the wrong thing.
A good trick for removing hot glue is to apply isopropyl (rubbing?) alcohol to the glue interface, makes it peel right off. May not help if wires are embedded in it though.

I have no idea if your desired power level is realistic, but it looks like a nice transformer, good luck with it!
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