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The zvs is working

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StormInABottle

Sat Feb 09 2013, 07:15PM

Registered Member #9252 Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253

So as you know my first zvs got turned into a ball of flame.. So i made this nice one. It is quite weird tho. 1 mosfet is heating. The other is cool. the 490 ohm resistors are 40 watts :) no heating at all. but 1 mosfet heating slightly.. all wires are thick. But at the input at the primary coil. once i turn stuff on. i get lots of smoke. While the only thing heating is the cap. other things are fairly cool. with other things i mean the wires.. And at 12 volts input. With the first light of the zvs. always use 12 volts XD. I was using a nice little laptop power supply before moving on to the transformer. Anyway. at 12 volts input. i got a nice purple arc. And once i got power off the system. moved some connections. Not un plugged them.. No just moved a wire or two.
went to 24 volts. and i get smooooke. and no arcs :( the cap is a cermaic. No bipolar one :/

StormInABottle

Sun Feb 10 2013, 08:51AM

Registered Member #9252 Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253

The capacitor was melting. And when i touch the ground hv wire to the hv wire. i get some small sparks. I think that is that i found out the f word ing b word at the electronics shop. gave me 1n4007 diodes instead of uf4007. FUUUUUU so i think the problem is the diode not making enough frequency to induce enough current through the ferrite to the secondary coil. :(. Also specially for the zvs. i bought a NEW IN IT'S BOX flyback of a 27 inch flyback. There was also a red sony flyback. That at the pins you can see the wires going to the pin. it had some little wax thing at the pins. and not that big core also had no suction cup at the hv wire. just a wire sticking it belonged to a 20 inch tv. I took the 27 inch one in hopes of better performance.. it has 10 pins. The last pin on the horse shoe is the secondary is the ground pin. I will include the model of the flyback one i get back home. Also i will get the uf4007. and kick that idiot at the electronics shop butt :(

ZakWolf

Mon Feb 11 2013, 07:04AM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

Ok lets see here...

The cap--Its my understanding the MKP type caps work the best or are the only type that work. any others i dont think work well or at all. ( i may be wrong)

The diode-- it is also my understanding the ZVS driver will not function with such a slow diode, im not sure if it hurt your fets but they need to be super or ultra fast switch (uf4007's are perfect)

replacing the diodes will probably stop the heating of the fets too...

good luck

StormInABottle

Mon Feb 11 2013, 11:21AM

Registered Member #9252 Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253

I added 2 more 1n4007. And that does magic. No more heating. the capacitor stays cool. And once i changed the flyback. I got EXTERMEMLY AWESOME results. Power supply was a 24 volts at 4 amps laptop powersupply. it gave some nice lone 3 inch arcs. The last one gave like 1 inch with the same powersupply. no heating. Everything is from ice age :) i gotta crank it up to 36 volts. also a little accident happened. The laptop power supply went boom boom boom. And there was a like, small explosion near the pins of the flyback. It had no sound. Just like a arc over. but from a zvs. tho i grounded the negative pin. Anyway, So i still wanted to play. So i got my 50 volts dc transformer Which had it's rectification stage with ultra capacitors. Anyway. i cranked it up into the zvs. Only for on of the capacitor's pins to go boom boom boom. A wire went lose. i put that back in place. and once i put the wire back in place. i had 2 ceramic capacitors. One went boom boom boom. And then i knew that the ultra capacitor was still dumping 50 volts into the driver. I was scared. So i dropped a large heat sink on the capacitor pins. and then.. a BOOOOOM THAT lasted for like 30 seconds.note i removed the inputs of the zvs before that haha and now i am left with no power supply for it. I asked for lead acid batteries at the shop. lead acid batteries 7 AH at 12 volts each. i need 3 for 36 volts is waaay above my budget. And i though. I could stack 3 atx modified power supplies. for 36 volts. Atx power supplies are super beefy. And each is like 1 thousand watts. Atx power supplies are as cheap as crap.

Shrad

Mon Feb 11 2013, 11:50AM

Registered Member #3215 Joined: Sun Sept 19 2010, 08:42PM
Location:
Posts: 780

it is VERY hard to read you

use of punctuation and paragraphs would help by a certain amount...

StormInABottle

Mon Feb 11 2013, 09:04PM

Registered Member #9252 Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253

Notice. The signature. Sorry for the grammer :/.. Anyway. I bought 3 pc dell power supplies. each is 1200 watts. With 1 1000 watts. so 2 1200 watts and 1 1000 watts. I will use them in hopes of connecting them in series for 36 volts.

Harry

Mon Feb 11 2013, 09:58PM

Registered Member #4081 Joined: Wed Aug 31 2011, 06:40PM
Location: UK
Posts: 139

In my experience, the negative (black wire) of the PSU output is connected to mains earth on these power supplies so the chassis gets a good earth.
So if you connect the positive of one supply to the negative of another, it will form a short circuit between the PSU's along the mains wiring. I wouldn't advise removing the ground lead from the mains as then the output can float at quite a high voltage (120VAC in my experience while it was running in 240VAC) and give an uncomfortable shock.

StormInABottle

Tue Feb 12 2013, 09:01PM

Registered Member #9252 Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253

Ok i was running 2 power supplies today.and results were amazing. But i noticed. After a while of running. The large thick ass white arc. turns into a cute short purple arc. also maximum arc length is 10 cm. if you ask if anything is heating. The answer is no.everything is cool. But the arc. its hot. If you guys can tell me how to solve the problem i 'd appreciate it. as for the capacitors i am using. They are 2 ceramics each half a uf so booth combined = 1 uf. I am very pleased. cant wait till 36 volts

StormInABottle

Thu Feb 14 2013, 09:17PM

Registered Member #9252 Joined: Fri Jan 04 2013, 06:27AM
Location: Andromeda
Posts: 253

Please answer :3. The arcs start as big thick arcs and end as smaller arcs. at 32 volts input. once started i read normal voltages. Then i stretch that arc. Once it dies. the volts drops to 19 also the ceramics. always smoke now. what can i do. starting to run out of them

ZakWolf

Fri Feb 15 2013, 06:13AM

Registered Member #3114 Joined: Sat Aug 14 2010, 08:33AM
Location:
Posts: 608

Arcingnoob wrote ...

Please answer :3. The arcs start as big thick arcs and end as smaller arcs. at 32 volts input. once started i read normal voltages. Then i stretch that arc. Once it dies. the volts drops to 19 also the ceramics. always smoke now. what can i do. starting to run out of them

Sounds like your power supply is sagging and isnt supplying enough current.

Also ceramics dont work well at all for the driver, try to use MKP types from old TV's

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