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Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
I think this is the right forum for this posting, Id like to make all my AR drone, robotics, and motion control threads and postings here for development, discussions and experimental maters. Then send final projects off to the project fourm for final publication.
On to the pics.
The white tips are going to be painted neon yellow for visability/safety.
seen here flying while at night, neon stickers quickly peeled off though.
The upper most pic is my new low mass, low drag configuration. Ive shaved off about 80 grams. it now wheighs in at 352 grams... as from the factory it normally max's out at 433 grams.
The standard battery wheighs 105 grams, and is 11.1V at 1000mAh. the new battery will wheigh 185 grams, and is 11.1V at 2200mAh.
with the standard outdoor hull and normal battery (totalling 433g), my machine could fly for 10m 30secs of rigorus, dynamic flying, hovering, climbing and cruising.
with the new battery it will wheigh 437g and have more than twice the capacity. so i think we'll have enough power for 20 minutes of wisely used flight time.
The ARM9 processor and nav board heat up quick, so the onboard computing must take a non-trivial amount of power which is a constant in both the factory version and my modded version.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
Crashed it! it was up past 120 feet, refused to auto land three times, uncomanded climb continued till i E-stopped it, it flat planed right in, in pieces on a cement pad. Broke the cross frame but it looks like its fixable.
Im going to mod it off wifi onto a normal RC flight controller.
the motors are rated for 15 watts each, there are 4 so thats 60 J/s to lift 430 grams, for each second of a static hover. i wonder what the propeller efficiency is? EDIT: i think the hover uses about 10-12 J/s per motor.
This is the main board. About 99$ if i ever need a new one. (im still trying to figure out that beige one)
Registered Member #65
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:43AM
Location:
Posts: 1155
Unfortunately, ~40kHz Sonars make wonderful wind-speed indicators, and fill countless hobbyists with a false sense of progress. Note, almost all hobby sonars must be polled to reduce interference.
In unstable air, acoustic based ranging technology will ultimately waste your time.
Even on an IR washed sunny day, a shrouded long-distance Proximity Sensor will offer better accuracy.
Radar Rangefinder
Pseudo-Laser Rangefinder (laser pointer and flight camera may have limited results)
Registered Member #96
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
Nice project!
Makes my feeble attempts look like the work of a three year old. I will have to do some improvements
Sorry to hear about your crash, I had that happen once with a foamy. Unfortunately it Deep Impacted into the sea, which did a lot of damage.
I'd put a better failsafe on there, which listens for the Tx signal and if it detects a dropout and no return it cuts motor power to 70% and freezes the power to keep it level as it descends.
I have a cheap heli here where it has frame damage due to something similar, in this case the tail rotor was destroyed and it cracked the frame too.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
Conundrum wrote ...
I'd put a better failsafe on there, which listens for the Tx signal and if it detects a dropout and no return it cuts motor power to 70% and freezes the power to keep it level as it descends.
It already has this exact feature, but it doesnt work worth crap when wifi is lost from an iTouch.
Carbon_Rod wrote ...
Unfortunately, ~40kHz Sonars make wonderful wind-speed indicators, and fill countless hobbyists with a false sense of progress. Note, almost all hobby sonars must be polled to reduce interference.
In unstable air, acoustic based ranging technology will ultimately waste your time.
Even on an IR washed sunny day, a shrouded long-distance Proximity Sensor will offer better accuracy.
Radar Rangefinder
Pseudo-Laser Rangefinder (laser pointer and flight camera may have limited results)
good luck
I did get an "ultrasound alert" on the screen, it had the altitude limit set to 15 feet or whatever, yet took off like a rocket past 100ft, and then fell like a piano to the ground.
that PER-26 looks nice but i dont think i cant afford it if its 3k$
Registered Member #96
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
Nice, is this normal f/glass or some exotic composite?
I've repaired helis with Polymorph before, worked fine until someone crashed it (again) and smashed the R/C PCB. Ironically my repair held just fine even though it tailplanted.
I did have a thought, use conductive thread to illuminate the rotor tips with an 0603 LED on each rotor tip. Power it with a small inductor at the shaft end and a magnet just underneath fixed to the frame. Plus the weight balance should then be perfect so no added vibration etc.
BTW the beige component is probably a 470uF tantalum capacitor. Used because its ESR is nice and low and they are lightweight to boot.
Registered Member #2431
Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639
Steve McConner wrote ...
Given that it says "Atheros" on it I think it's more likely a wi-fi chip.
You win, McConner....
Conundrum wrote ...
Nice, is this normal f/glass or some exotic composite?
I've repaired helis with Polymorph before, worked fine until someone crashed it (again) and smashed the R/C PCB. Ironically my repair held just fine even though it tailplanted.
I did have a thought, use conductive thread to illuminate the rotor tips with an 0603 LED on each rotor tip. Power it with a small inductor at the shaft end and a magnet just underneath fixed to the frame. Plus the weight balance should then be perfect so no added vibration etc.
BTW the beige component is probably a 470uF tantalum capacitor. Used because its ESR is nice and low and they are lightweight to boot.
-A
I used FR4 etched board, 13 grams there, in that pic with nylon screws.
I popped the main board in the crash. so ill need to spend 99$ if i cant re-ball the two BGA ic's.
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AR Drone Modding and Autonomous Flight.
it was up past 120 feet, refused to auto land three times, uncomanded climb continued till i E-stopped it, it flat planed right in, in pieces on a cement pad. Broke the cross frame but it looks like its fixable.
