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Registered Member #938
Joined: Sat Aug 04 2007, 05:39AM
Location: Honokaa,HI,USA
Posts: 65
I've been wanting to finish my microcontroller reef led light for a year or so. I just started it up again and I'm close to being done but my cheap $10 radioshack iron bit the dust. I've thought about the Hakko 936 however spending $70 on a soldering iron sounds rather high right now. Is there anything that is high quality but reasonably priced?
Registered Member #2838
Joined: Fri Apr 30 2010, 07:55PM
Location: tehachapi, CA
Posts: 333
Wow, only $5 and just as good as a weller? Hmm...
Anyway, i recently had the same problem and broke down and purchased a weller. Vary happy that i did! However, if you are looking for another cheap iron there is an inexpensive 50w adjustable that i used for a while that works fine (not as good as a weller! But better than a radioshack cheapie). Here is a link. (good inexpensive weller 0-850* in 35 seconds)
If you end up purchasing this one send me a PM. I have several spare tips for it that i no longer have use for. In any case, good luck!
Registered Member #938
Joined: Sat Aug 04 2007, 05:39AM
Location: Honokaa,HI,USA
Posts: 65
I've been looking at a few brands on ebay. The VTSS5U are cheap even with shipping out here. (eBay is awesome) I might just go for that since I'm not going for heavy use. However, I've seen the wes51 for a decent price($50 or so), not far off from the $30 I'd pay for VTSS5U
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3140
I've been usng Weller irons for about 30 years so I'm biased,
whichever soldering iron you go for, consider;
- Temperature controlled - 50W minimum - Buy a small selection of bits, A very fine bit (1mm) for smd A medium bit (2 to 3 mm) for through-hole components A wide short bit (5mm) for groundplanes, rf connectors etc. - Choose a slim handle, the cheap/fat ones aren't very comfortable - Must have a stand and sponge - Don't get thick pvc insulated wire - it's stiff and can be accidentally melted - Don't get a cheap phase-controller-type as they put out a lot of rfi.
You will also need to do some de-soldering, a small handheld de-soldering pump and some copper braid if you don't want to splash out on a de-soldering station ($$$$$)
As a hobbyist you don't need to worry about RoHS etc. so go for lead/tin solder as tin (tin/copper) solder needs a higher temperature and flux.
Although 'nerdy' I recommend protective goggles - any cheap ones. I wear spectacles and have cleaned tiny specks of solder off many times.
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