Welcome
Username or Email:

Password:


Missing Code




[ ]
[ ]
Online
  • Guests: 19
  • Members: 0
  • Newest Member: omjtest
  • Most ever online: 396
    Guests: 396, Members: 0 on 12 Jan : 12:51
Members Birthdays:
One birthday today, congrats!
a.gutzeit (63)


Next birthdays
05/08 wpk5008 (34)
05/09 Alfons (36)
05/09 Coronafix (51)
Contact
If you need assistance, please send an email to forum at 4hv dot org. To ensure your email is not marked as spam, please include the phrase "4hv help" in the subject line. You can also find assistance via IRC, at irc.shadowworld.net, room #hvcomm.
Support 4hv.org!
Donate:
4hv.org is hosted on a dedicated server. Unfortunately, this server costs and we rely on the help of site members to keep 4hv.org running. Please consider donating. We will place your name on the thanks list and you'll be helping to keep 4hv.org alive and free for everyone. Members whose names appear in red bold have donated recently. Green bold denotes those who have recently donated to keep the server carbon neutral.


Special Thanks To:
  • Aaron Holmes
  • Aaron Wheeler
  • Adam Horden
  • Alan Scrimgeour
  • Andre
  • Andrew Haynes
  • Anonymous000
  • asabase
  • Austin Weil
  • barney
  • Barry
  • Bert Hickman
  • Bill Kukowski
  • Blitzorn
  • Brandon Paradelas
  • Bruce Bowling
  • BubeeMike
  • Byong Park
  • Cesiumsponge
  • Chris F.
  • Chris Hooper
  • Corey Worthington
  • Derek Woodroffe
  • Dalus
  • Dan Strother
  • Daniel Davis
  • Daniel Uhrenholt
  • datasheetarchive
  • Dave Billington
  • Dave Marshall
  • David F.
  • Dennis Rogers
  • drelectrix
  • Dr. John Gudenas
  • Dr. Spark
  • E.TexasTesla
  • eastvoltresearch
  • Eirik Taylor
  • Erik Dyakov
  • Erlend^SE
  • Finn Hammer
  • Firebug24k
  • GalliumMan
  • Gary Peterson
  • George Slade
  • GhostNull
  • Gordon Mcknight
  • Graham Armitage
  • Grant
  • GreySoul
  • Henry H
  • IamSmooth
  • In memory of Leo Powning
  • Jacob Cash
  • James Howells
  • James Pawson
  • Jeff Greenfield
  • Jeff Thomas
  • Jesse Frost
  • Jim Mitchell
  • jlr134
  • Joe Mastroianni
  • John Forcina
  • John Oberg
  • John Willcutt
  • Jon Newcomb
  • klugesmith
  • Leslie Wright
  • Lutz Hoffman
  • Mads Barnkob
  • Martin King
  • Mats Karlsson
  • Matt Gibson
  • Matthew Guidry
  • mbd
  • Michael D'Angelo
  • Mikkel
  • mileswaldron
  • mister_rf
  • Neil Foster
  • Nick de Smith
  • Nick Soroka
  • nicklenorp
  • Nik
  • Norman Stanley
  • Patrick Coleman
  • Paul Brodie
  • Paul Jordan
  • Paul Montgomery
  • Ped
  • Peter Krogen
  • Peter Terren
  • PhilGood
  • Richard Feldman
  • Robert Bush
  • Royce Bailey
  • Scott Fusare
  • Scott Newman
  • smiffy
  • Stella
  • Steven Busic
  • Steve Conner
  • Steve Jones
  • Steve Ward
  • Sulaiman
  • Thomas Coyle
  • Thomas A. Wallace
  • Thomas W
  • Timo
  • Torch
  • Ulf Jonsson
  • vasil
  • Vaxian
  • vladi mazzilli
  • wastehl
  • Weston
  • William Kim
  • William N.
  • William Stehl
  • Wesley Venis
The aforementioned have contributed financially to the continuing triumph of 4hv.org. They are deserving of my most heartfelt thanks.
Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
« Previous topic | Next topic »   

DRSSTC

1 2 3 
Move Thread LAN_403
Bennem
Tue Jul 03 2007, 11:22PM Print
Bennem Registered Member #154 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Hi Folks,
Due to this years wet summer we're having here in the UK,
I decided to use some time on making another DRSSTC.
About two years ago, i purchased one of Dan McCauleys
Advanced controller boards, allthough i populated it with
components, i never got round to using it.
As it was designed for secondary feedback, i decided to
upgrade it to primary feedback and added sync shut off,
over current detection, a bargraph peak current readout
and 'set current' bar graph readout.
I have a quick question,
I read that some guys have used caps from their bus lines
to ground on their coils,
what is the reason for this?
Is it something to do with draining RF currents when subjected
to primary to secondary sparks?

Sorry about the poor quality pics....they were taken with a phone
camera.

cheers,
Mel.

1183504875 154 FT0 Driver

1183504875 154 FT0 Base

1183504875 154 FT0 Layout
Back to top
Part Scavenger
Tue Jul 03 2007, 11:34PM
Part Scavenger Registered Member #79 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 11:35AM
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 673
Looking good as usual Mel!!!
Back to top
Bennem
Thu Jul 05 2007, 06:03AM
Bennem Registered Member #154 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Cheers GB !

It may look ok....but i still have to test it on a coil.... rolleyes
Any ideas as to the cap question?
I read somewhere about Firkrags DRSSTC and him having
sparks appearing on his bridge, and by putting caps from
his bus lines to ground cured this.
Is this the reason folks put caps from their bus lines to ground?
Back to top
Steve Conner
Thu Jul 05 2007, 03:23PM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Yes, the caps are to drain away any dangerous common-mode RF voltages, that might otherwise make your gate drive transformer break down and let the smoke out big-time.

I use a single ceramic disc cap between the DC bus negative, and the mains earth. I also connect the ground rail of the driver circuitry to that same mains earth.
Back to top
Marko
Thu Jul 05 2007, 03:56PM
Marko Registered Member #89 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
God, I've just laughed out my ass after reading steve's signature.

I read somewhere about Firkrags DRSSTC and him having
sparks appearing on his bridge, and by putting caps from
his bus lines to ground cured this.
Is this the reason folks put caps from their bus lines to ground?

The caps *did not* completely stop the arcing on my bridge. Much less than before, but it still occurs at ground strikes at only 60V input. I mothballed the coil for a while because of that.

This is crazy considering low RF impedance I created between two points, it still arcs over.

I now believe my single-point grounding is bad. Since I have nothing else available the secondary ground ends stuck on neutral wire wich has quite high RF impedance. Still, it doesn't explain the problem too well.


(this is all with isolation transformer. I don't know how will it behave if ran directly from mains).
Back to top
Bennem
Thu Jul 05 2007, 05:10PM
Bennem Registered Member #154 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Thanks for the replies!

I'll add something like a 1000pf cap from my neg bus rail
to mains earth..... smile
Back to top
Bennem
Sun Jul 08 2007, 03:53PM
Bennem Registered Member #154 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Today i made my primary coil and strike ring.
I have another question....if thats ok?
What do you guys use to connect to your primary coil?
on my last mini DRSSTC i used an ordinary fuse clip
from a mains plug and it got very hot!

1183910000 154 FT27741 Added Primary Coil
Back to top
Tom540
Mon Jul 09 2007, 02:12AM
Tom540 Banned on 3/17/2009.
Registered Member #487 Joined: Sun Jul 09 2006, 01:22AM
Location:
Posts: 617
Wow that looks awesome. very clean.
Back to top
thedatastream
Mon Jul 09 2007, 07:27AM
thedatastream Registered Member #505 Joined: Sun Nov 19 2006, 06:42PM
Location: Yorkshire!
Posts: 329
Mel,

I used some copper earthing straps from B+Q designed for 15mm pipe. I hammered them flat and then re-bent them around an M8 rod so that they would clamp to the 8mm microbore pipe that I used for my primary.

James
Back to top
ArcLight
Mon Jul 09 2007, 07:36PM
ArcLight Registered Member #341 Joined: Thu Mar 23 2006, 07:41PM
Location: Northern Illinois, USA
Posts: 69
I couldn't get a fuse holder to work properly either. And a clamp that I fashioned with a set-screw either didn't connect well or crushed the tubing.

For general coil use (MMC, gap, etc.) I purchased a 6” by 10' roll of copper flashing (USD $23) at a home improvement store. Using heavy-duty scissors I cut a strip about 5/8” wide by 1 3/4" long. Then drilled two holes (whatever size that's appropriate for a #10 screw) 1 3/16” apart. The piece was then wrapped around a form that was slightly smaller in diameter than the primary tubing and the screw installed. I then used needle-nose pliers to make the copper perfectly fit the form. After forming, the piece was finished on a belt sander to remove burrs, sharp corners, etc. The piece was then installed on the primary and secured with a couple of washers and a 1/2” #10 brass screw. It's not as convenient to move when tuning, but it has never failed to function properly.

After I wrote my response, I actually read thedatastream's post. Basically, I'm saying the same thing, but with more words. angry

Regards, ArcLight
Back to top
1 2 3 

Moderator(s): Chris Russell, Noelle, Alex, Tesladownunder, Dave Marshall, Dave Billington, Bjørn, Steve Conner, Wolfram, Kizmo, Mads Barnkob

Go to:

Powered by e107 Forum System
 
Legal Information
This site is powered by e107, which is released under the GNU GPL License. All work on this site, except where otherwise noted, is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 License. By submitting any information to this site, you agree that anything submitted will be so licensed. Please read our Disclaimer and Policies page for information on your rights and responsibilities regarding this site.