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Registered Member #154
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Hi Folks, Due to this years wet summer we're having here in the UK, I decided to use some time on making another DRSSTC. About two years ago, i purchased one of Dan McCauleys Advanced controller boards, allthough i populated it with components, i never got round to using it. As it was designed for secondary feedback, i decided to upgrade it to primary feedback and added sync shut off, over current detection, a bargraph peak current readout and 'set current' bar graph readout. I have a quick question, I read that some guys have used caps from their bus lines to ground on their coils, what is the reason for this? Is it something to do with draining RF currents when subjected to primary to secondary sparks?
Sorry about the poor quality pics....they were taken with a phone camera.
Registered Member #154
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Cheers GB !
It may look ok....but i still have to test it on a coil.... Any ideas as to the cap question? I read somewhere about Firkrags DRSSTC and him having sparks appearing on his bridge, and by putting caps from his bus lines to ground cured this. Is this the reason folks put caps from their bus lines to ground?
Registered Member #30
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Yes, the caps are to drain away any dangerous common-mode RF voltages, that might otherwise make your gate drive transformer break down and let the smoke out big-time.
I use a single ceramic disc cap between the DC bus negative, and the mains earth. I also connect the ground rail of the driver circuitry to that same mains earth.
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
God, I've just laughed out my ass after reading steve's signature.
I read somewhere about Firkrags DRSSTC and him having sparks appearing on his bridge, and by putting caps from his bus lines to ground cured this. Is this the reason folks put caps from their bus lines to ground?
The caps *did not* completely stop the arcing on my bridge. Much less than before, but it still occurs at ground strikes at only 60V input. I mothballed the coil for a while because of that.
This is crazy considering low RF impedance I created between two points, it still arcs over.
I now believe my single-point grounding is bad. Since I have nothing else available the secondary ground ends stuck on neutral wire wich has quite high RF impedance. Still, it doesn't explain the problem too well.
(this is all with isolation transformer. I don't know how will it behave if ran directly from mains).
Registered Member #154
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:28PM
Location: Westmidlands, UK
Posts: 260
Today i made my primary coil and strike ring. I have another question....if thats ok? What do you guys use to connect to your primary coil? on my last mini DRSSTC i used an ordinary fuse clip from a mains plug and it got very hot!
Registered Member #505
Joined: Sun Nov 19 2006, 06:42PM
Location: Yorkshire!
Posts: 329
Mel,
I used some copper earthing straps from B+Q designed for 15mm pipe. I hammered them flat and then re-bent them around an M8 rod so that they would clamp to the 8mm microbore pipe that I used for my primary.
Registered Member #341
Joined: Thu Mar 23 2006, 07:41PM
Location: Northern Illinois, USA
Posts: 69
I couldn't get a fuse holder to work properly either. And a clamp that I fashioned with a set-screw either didn't connect well or crushed the tubing.
For general coil use (MMC, gap, etc.) I purchased a 6†by 10' roll of copper flashing (USD $23) at a home improvement store. Using heavy-duty scissors I cut a strip about 5/8†wide by 1 3/4" long. Then drilled two holes (whatever size that's appropriate for a #10 screw) 1 3/16†apart. The piece was then wrapped around a form that was slightly smaller in diameter than the primary tubing and the screw installed. I then used needle-nose pliers to make the copper perfectly fit the form. After forming, the piece was finished on a belt sander to remove burrs, sharp corners, etc. The piece was then installed on the primary and secured with a couple of washers and a 1/2†#10 brass screw. It's not as convenient to move when tuning, but it has never failed to function properly.
After I wrote my response, I actually read thedatastream's post. Basically, I'm saying the same thing, but with more words.
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