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Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
This is a very simple and reliable circuit and can be built including the flyback inside a small box. The heart of the circuit is a TRIAC device, basically two antiparallel SCR's. It does not need a heatsink. The circuit works by discharging a small capacitor through the flyback primary in each mains halfwave, producing a high voltage pulse on the secondary winding. The output spark produces a characteristic crackle at mains frequency, which adds to the "coolness factor". With more primary turns and bigger capacitor (labeled "C" in the schematic), the produced spark will be much hotter and can be used to drive e.g. a small Jacob's ladder. This circuit stresses insulation in the flyback's secondary, and breakdown can occur at lower voltages than with high-frequency drivers, but the breakdown is not usually fatal for the flyback because there is not enough energy in the spark to actually damage the insulation.
In my setup I used two seriesed secondaries on one core. The output spark can reach about 4cm. After it's tuned I will built it inside a small box (for "high voltage demos" )
sorry, I couldn't get better picture of the sparks
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
I like this circuit because of its simplicity and because heating of the components is next to none. I was able to get about 6cm spark from my duo-flyback, but I had sparking between one of the secondaries and core, so in final version I will pot the whole thing in wax (from some old candles) for better insulation. So far I haven't found a way how to regulate power down to zero (or near-zero), if anyone has an idea, it would be great!
Registered Member #135
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
Down to zero? Okay, just rearrange your pot as a divider network and it should go to zero. Try the legs of the pot across your 22nF cap, and the wiper going to your 220K feed resistor. I should also mention that the 1M in || with the 22nF will probably change your RC time, so you might want to reduce the 22nF to 10nF or less, but give that a shot.
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Hazmatt_(The Underdog) wrote ...
Down to zero? Okay, just rearrange your pot as a divider network and it should go to zero. Try the legs of the pot across your 22nF cap, and the wiper going to your 220K feed resistor. I should also mention that the 1M in || with the 22nF will probably change your RC time, so you might want to reduce the 22nF to 10nF or less, but give that a shot.
hmm... thanks, I tried that, when I turn the pot from one side, the output voltage increases until at one point abruptly turns off. Maybe I should refine my question as, is it possible to control the output *voltage* from zero (or near-zero) to full (this means either from 0 to 90 or from 90 to 180 degrees)? There is a problem that when the triac fires, the kickback from the primary turns it off, so it is possible for it to fire multiple times in each halfwave, and this also results in that it fires quite irregularly.
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