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4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
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Grooved Bobbins For Segmented Windings

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jpsmith123
Sat Jul 17 2010, 06:47AM Print
jpsmith123 Registered Member #1321 Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
I finally got my new Micro100 carbide grooving tool (and it seems to work very well), so I'm about ready to start experimenting with "pie" type windings.

The issue I'm struggling with is: What's the best way to run the wire connecting the sequential "pies" together; i.e., to get from the top of the most recently wound coil, to the bottom layer of the next groove)?

I seem to recall a lengthy discussion here about the subject, but I can't find that thread.

Was there any consensus on what's the best mechanical method to do it, e.g., by cutting an angled "slit" in the "lands"
between grooves?
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Proud Mary
Sat Jul 17 2010, 08:42AM
Proud Mary Registered Member #543 Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
I've just looked at three 1930s RF chokes for you. Two had 45 deg slots cut in the partitions, and one had partitions like cog teeth to reduce the amount of ebonite dielectric between windings, so no special channel had to be cut to lead the wire into the next winding space.

Later RF transmitter chokes used self-supporting wave windings with air 'partitions' between windings, to keep the inter-winding capacitance as low as possible.
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RickR
Sat Jul 17 2010, 05:01PM
RickR Registered Member #93 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 04:11PM
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 64
Which grooving tool did you purchase? I took a look at the Micro100 catalog and am wondering about what type of machine the grooving tools are supposed to be mounted in. Would you elaborate on the tool and the type of material you're planning to cut the grooves in?

I've used a table saw to cut circular grooves in UHMW tubes to create pies, but would be interested in anything that's safer.

When I did the winding, I wound on every other pie. I cut notches in the pies so I could run wire from the top of one winding, through a notch, along the unwound path, through the next notch to the bottom of the next winding. It's a potential waste of space, but it was very effective in isolating the windings. One of the reasons I'm asking about the tool is that I would like a way to minimize the width of the routing channels as opposed to the width of the winding channels.

Thanks,

Rick
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jpsmith123
Sat Jul 17 2010, 05:55PM
jpsmith123 Registered Member #1321 Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
@RickR:

What I got from Micro100 is a brazed, micrograin carbide, lathe toolbit, part #GS-122002. (I just have a crappy - and I mean crappy - little Micromark 7x14 mini-lathe).

The bits come in different sizes. The one I got cuts a 1/8" wide radial groove (actually 0.122 inches) and it has a 3/8" square shank. It cuts cpvc really well...no grabbing, no melting, no nuthin'...just an easy, precise, nice looking cut.

I wonder what's the best way to cut an angled slit in the "lands" (the partition betweer the winding grooves)? I'm trying to think of how to do it in a precise way, and I'm having trouble.

@Proud Mary:

I'm having trouble trying to visualize the "cog tooth" scheme you're describing.
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Proud Mary
Sat Jul 17 2010, 06:57PM
Proud Mary Registered Member #543 Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
jpsmith123 wrote ...

@Proud Mary:

I'm having trouble trying to visualize the "cog tooth" scheme you're describing.



1279392897 543 FT92859 Three Chokes


How's that? smile




1279392951 543 FT92859 Three Chokes Slit 400

1279392984 543 FT92859 Three Chokes Coil Lcog400
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jpsmith123
Sat Jul 17 2010, 08:03PM
jpsmith123 Registered Member #1321 Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
Wow look at those things! Thanks...but you didn't need to rob a museum just for my sake...

Anyway, all kidding aside, I see the things you're talking about, and I can see how that design would reduce the capacitive coupling between sections somewhat, however, it isn't clear to me how you can "insulate" the wire to prevent dielectric breakdown as the wire goes from the top of one section to the bottom of the next.
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Proud Mary
Sat Jul 17 2010, 08:44PM
Proud Mary Registered Member #543 Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
jpsmith123 wrote ...

Anyway, all kidding aside, I see the things you're talking about, and I can see how that design would reduce the capacitive coupling between sections somewhat, however, it isn't clear to me how you can "insulate" the wire to prevent dielectric breakdown as the wire goes from the top of one section to the bottom of the next.


How do you imagine the potential difference would be distributed down the length of the choke?
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jpsmith123
Sun Jul 18 2010, 04:59AM
jpsmith123 Registered Member #1321 Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
Well the item at issue is a proposed HV secondary, producing approximately 10 kv peak, with 8 sections, so the potential difference across each section, bottom layer to top layer, will be approximately 1250 volts.

The object is to get the winding wire from the top layer of section N to the bottom layer of section N+1, while staying comfortably away from the other layers, and interposing some insulating material therebetween.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something, but it's not clear to me how a cog tooth partition between adjacent sections can solve this problem.



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Proud Mary
Sun Jul 18 2010, 07:29AM
Proud Mary Registered Member #543 Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
What does the data sheet for your wire say is the RMS insulation breakdown voltage?
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jpsmith123
Mon Jul 19 2010, 06:18AM
jpsmith123 Registered Member #1321 Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
One problem is that I don't have a data sheet for this 26 gauge magnet wire I'd like to use, so I'm not sure what its breakdown voltage is.

Of course I searched the internet to get an idea of the range of breakdown voltages available in commercial magnet wire, and IIRC, the lowest rated wire I found was specified as "> 1 KV". (I was surprised to see that some magnet wire was rated at 5 KV, and I think there was some rated even higher).

In any case, to be prudent, I'm assuming my magnet wire is rated at 1 KV. Using this number, I can see that I need to be somewhat careful, but I don't need to get carried away.
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