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Registered Member #902
Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1040
hello all, I plan to redesign one of my Pelican Cases reserved for Hard Drives to include built-in SATA-USB/eSATA connections. I know how I can make the enclosure remain waterproof when installing the exterior connectors, but my question is how I can stop water from entering the actual connectors without having to use a cover. I can use a cover but it is inconvenient to have to remove and replace it after every use. I wonder if there is something out there that works better or connectors that are easy to remove water from should water get in them, or at least warn me if water gets in them so I can use a different one. The cover with a gasket is just a little too much bulk for a Pelican 1120 Case (look up the size and you will see why). I plan to have two hard drives to start out with: one 1TB 3.5" drive, and one 64GB Patriot Warp SSD @ 2.5"
I also have designed a computer and accessory system that can operate fully underwater and might look for help in working out some details, which I will post later, but the basics work like this: the laptop is built into a Pelican case, but the laptop is ONLY in the lid area of the case, inverted like tablets. A silicone keyboard is mounted on a panel which seals the main area of the case, which can store extra battery, cables, and accessories. The exterior connections to the computer would have to be assembled dry them ready to use, but I am designing a system that might just work otherwise. The current dry process uses PVC or similar pipe fittings that are threaded on the inside and have a bulkhead that contains the sealed connector, like USB. It is sealed from letting water in because as long as water does not get past the connector, most computers will detect a problem with the USB port and shut it down, preventing damage. Once dry the connector can be reset. To keep water from getting to the connector when not in use, a threaded end cap with Teflon tape seals the end. Since the fitting on the case is threaded on the inside, a "inverted" end cap can be used to save space. A similar connection would be on the accessory to be connected. To join the two, a cable made from a standard USB cable, some flexible tubing, and silicone is used. To maintain watertightness at the points of connection, a specialty PVC fitting is used that has the ability to couple the fittings together without rotating it. Like the assembly on most garden hoses that lets you rotate the end to avoid rotating the entire cable, and such PVC fittings are available at many hardware stores. For cooling of the computer, a section of plastic from the case is removed and replaced with two metal plates that "sandwich: the gap and use silicone to better the seal. A heat transfer compound is also used to keep the metals conducting heat.
thoughts on my design or the problem with the hard drive connectors?
-Jimmy
p.s: sorry if I am not conveying these ideas clearly enough
Registered Member #543
Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
Hello Lad,
I spent years trying to keep automatic light buoys, light ships, Decca and Loran off-shore stations going in very wet conditions, and if there was one single thing that made a lot of difference I'd recommend self-adhesive heat shrink: i.e. heat shrink with adhesive lining.
Registered Member #2390
Joined: Sat Sept 26 2009, 02:04PM
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 381
I would have to second that. The self adhesive heat shrink works miracles in wet or submerged locations. Thats what we used back in my navy days. Still use it now at work, anytime we have a machine that will have water splashing around, or a potential leak. Seals up great but try and put it on where you won't be needing to remove it!
Registered Member #902
Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1040
Proud Mary wrote ...
Hello Lad,
I spent years trying to keep automatic light buoys, light ships, Decca and Loran off-shore stations going in very wet conditions, and if there was one single thing that made a lot of difference I'd recommend self-adhesive heat shrink: i.e. heat shrink with adhesive lining.
Stella
that would be great for custom made cables, which I am thinking about instead of buying the ones linked to above - this project is being put on hold for a little while due to the resurgence of more important projects/duties, but I should have sketches of the final design when I bring it back up!
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