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Registered Member #1321
Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
I wonder what's the best way to remove the welded-together core from an HEI type ignition coil (with the lowest risk of damaging the coil)?
Luckily, the welds don't seem very deep.
I wish I had a milling machine, as I would try to mill the welded portion off with a small carbide end mill...but I don't have one yet, so it looks like I would have to use a hack saw or a grinder.
Registered Member #540
Joined: Mon Feb 19 2007, 07:49PM
Location: MIT
Posts: 969
People have used just hacksaws to remove EI sections from an MOT. I don't have an angle grinder but I heard they were not as good as hacksaws because they are a lot messier and they wear down faster. You may have to use a screwdriver to pry apart the sections even though the welds are cut. Cutting the welds removes some of the core's cross sectional area making it easier to saturate the core(I think) so don't cut too deep.
Registered Member #1321
Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
I want to remove the whole core, and replace it with a ferrite core. I guess I'll just have to go with a hack saw and be very careful. Here is the situation I basically have:
Registered Member #1806
Joined: Sun Nov 09 2008, 04:58AM
Location: USA
Posts: 136
I used an angle grinder (with a thin cut-off wheel) to cut the welds on a MOT, and it worked quite well. As for an HEI, I think that the same approach would work. If you're just wanting to be rid of the core, then clamp the core in a vise and go at the weld with a grinder or saw or whatever.. if you want the core, then be careful to only remove the metal that is part of the weld.
As long as you don't knick the coil with the cutting tool, you should be fine for the coil. If you're wanting to keep the core, then use an angle grinder. A hack saw will put significant side force on the core. The grinder spins so fast that it puts very little force in the metal its grinding on.
I love the grinder for cutting off bolts, because it will not deform the threads at all.. hence the nut will turn right on as if it was a factory end.
Registered Member #1321
Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
Well I guess it's all academic now, as my plans seem to be on hold.
The ferrite core I wanted is apparently one of those sizes that everyone catalogs, but no one stocks...and the only way to get it is to buy a large number of pieces.
Registered Member #1321
Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
Hello Anders,
Yes, thank you, I have been to the TSC International web site. I was holding off ordering from them as they didn't have the part available in the material I wanted...but I guess I don't have much choice and I will have to go with the more lossy material.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
You have to hate the cores that they end up welding the sides like I see on yours...Usually with cores that are just glued, you can just use a razor to slide, and screwdriver to pry. When i resorted to cutting a core I used a motorized hacksaw. Like a sawsall, just smaller and lighter.
Registered Member #1321
Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 03:22AM
Location:
Posts: 843
I decided I'm not going to try to remove the laminated core until I have the ferrite U cores in my hand and I inspect them to make sure that they'll fit (which will hopefully be a week or so).
After that, I'll remove the core and take some measurements, first with no core (i.e., air core), and then with the new ferrite core.
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What's the best way to remove the core laminations from an "E" core type ignition coil?
