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Registered Member #2310
Joined: Wed Aug 19 2009, 08:04PM
Location: Santa Catarina - Brazil
Posts: 169
News! I've discovered that the "COM" lead of the IR2184 was soldered on the negative of the 15v supply, that was an error, now it it's soldered on the source of the low side Mosfet, together with the negative of the Hi voltage inverter supply... Now a doubt got me: the current matching transformer is soldered to the negative of the 15v supply or to the high voltage supply?
Now my circuit look like this:
I'm still needing a decent supply for the inverter part
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
don't you think that if you pluged the dimmer directly into the wall with a breaker or fues that you can vary the AC. Take the output of the dimmer and a large resistor in series with a capacitive doubler using electrolytics and a cuple of diodes. What is your wall voltage at your location
Registered Member #2310
Joined: Wed Aug 19 2009, 08:04PM
Location: Santa Catarina - Brazil
Posts: 169
it is 220v the schematic of the dimmer is here: but instead of the 3 triacs I'm using one TIC41(40A) how should i connect the diodes, capacitors and resistor?
Registered Member #2310
Joined: Wed Aug 19 2009, 08:04PM
Location: Santa Catarina - Brazil
Posts: 169
Ok! I'll give up this project... i spent 3 months on it and now when i turn the inverter part with 30vDC it runs , and when i put 110v, 160, 185 or 250 on it, it don't work, the amperage keeps at 0.00, i think that only god can explain this... I just can think about one more thing: i'm using legs 1, 3, 5 ,9 and 11 /// 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 from 40106 conected is this a mistake
Registered Member #1232
Joined: Wed Jan 16 2008, 10:53PM
Location: Doon tha Toon!
Posts: 881
You really need to buy some decent test and measurement gear...
In my opinion a variac, isolation transformer and an oscilloscope with decent probes are essential for this type of work. Otherwise you are urinating in the wind. There could be absolutely anything happening in the circuit if you don't have an instrument that lets you look at the waveforms whilst it is running. There is no way that I could have designed, built and tested my Induction Heater without a decent test bench.
Registered Member #2310
Joined: Wed Aug 19 2009, 08:04PM
Location: Santa Catarina - Brazil
Posts: 169
the circuit is oscilating with 30~41vDC, because it can heat a screw very well, when i try it with 110, 160, 185, 250vDC it doesn't work someone knows why? for me it seems impossible to happen but is happening.....
Registered Member #2161
Joined: Fri Jun 05 2009, 03:36PM
Location:
Posts: 247
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but seeing as how the LM7815 is a linear type voltage regulator, wouldn't driving it with 12VAC rectified not provide it with enough voltage to stay in 15V regulation?
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
I think GeordieBoy is correct about test equipment. Unless you know what is happening how can we help. Can you barrow a scope? From what I've seen it is not oscilating. don't give up on it, maby you could make a make shift logic probe with the other inverters using some LED's
Registered Member #2310
Joined: Wed Aug 19 2009, 08:04PM
Location: Santa Catarina - Brazil
Posts: 169
ok, i'll try to obtain a osciloscope from "RIGOL" soon, but i have to say and ask some things: 1st- i'm using exactly this design: 2nd-the circuit is oscilating, besause the tank caps heat a little, and the workpiece get a little hot too 3rd-for those who have a IH like this, it is right getting only 2,8A of current with 36~45v ? And why the IRFP460s are getting hot with this tiny amount of power? is this circuit made for use only with powerfull IGBTs? 4th- what's the current drained when turning the inverter part with 220v? 5th-why my inverter works with 40vDC and don't make absolutely nothing when trying it with 100~300vDC?
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