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hvguy

Wed Jul 22 2009, 06:17PM

Registered Member #289 Joined: Mon Mar 06 2006, 10:45AM
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 154

Those could work, the turn off delay (Td) is a little long though. I would start off with 4.7ohm gate resistors and work your way DOWN from there. You could get away with half that capacitance for the doubler caps if you want to try to save some money there. Decisions, decisions...

Arcstarter

Wed Jul 22 2009, 08:17PM

Registered Member #1225 Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253

Yea, that would also cut down on inrush current, though i am not sure how big of a problem that actually is.

If i end up using this brick, i will likely wire everything with this ~1foot of copper strap i have. I love using that stuff for connections. That is just for connecting the doubler caps and possibly tank cap. For the rest of the high current wiring (and maybe from bridge to tank capacitor) i will just use this fairly thick maybe 8 gauge copper wire. I do have some 1/2 inch thick wire, but no need for that

. This thick wire would be easy to solder to copper strapping, so tank cap connections are no problem.

How does that sound? I am unsure.

Time for some pics of the driver board. It is only about 1/4-1/3 populated at this point.

1248293843 1225 FT72509 Drsstc Board1 001

1248293843 1225 FT72509 Drsstc Board1 002

Don't mind that nasty looking stuff, that is just some of the flux that i used. That brings up the question, what should i use to clean that stuff off? When i make circuit boards, quite often i have some sizzling because of that stuff being left on there. I am thinking 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, it has worked for me before. I am out for now though, but i will get some more if it is good enough for this job.

101111

Wed Jul 22 2009, 08:56PM

Registered Member #575 Joined: Sun Mar 11 2007, 04:00AM
Location: Norway
Posts: 263

A bit bad soldering, you should remove some tin and reflux it.
Besides that this looks sweet!

Arcstarter

Wed Jul 22 2009, 09:22PM

Registered Member #1225 Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253

Well, the soldering does not look as bad IRL, but there are like 5 pins i need to take some solder off of. None of these are cold joints, i always hold the iron there for a few seconds. Also, there are some brown/blacks spots that need to be cleaned off. Also, on the top i had a bit of solder that dropped off the tip, so now that part looks like crap

. That is what you get with cheap $10 irons. A shock and a crappy tip.

101111

Thu Jul 23 2009, 12:24AM

Registered Member #575 Joined: Sun Mar 11 2007, 04:00AM
Location: Norway
Posts: 263

Well, I see a few blobs.
Just remove some tin and add a little new to reflux it and it will be okay.

hvguy

Thu Jul 23 2009, 05:53AM

Registered Member #289 Joined: Mon Mar 06 2006, 10:45AM
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 154

Did your solder come from radio shack?

It looks like it was too large a diameter, but that's just my guess. The larger the solder wire diameter, the more flux to clean off and the less consistent the appearance of the joint. Obviously there is skill involved too, but it appears you have that

The BEST cleaning agent for guns and PCBs is carb/break cleaner. Pick some up at wal-mart for $1.50.

Arcstarter

Fri Jul 24 2009, 10:33PM

Registered Member #1225 Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253

Carburetor cleaner? Haha, no way! I use that stuff all the time, whether it is for engines or w/e other cleaning job. Don't have any right now though, i will be sure to buy some! Awesome suggestion

Obviously there is skill involved too, but it appears you have that

No, not really. Basically, i needed to solder stuff, so i picked up an iron and tried different ways until i found a good way.

By the way, the blobs are not going to hurt anything, other than appearance. That is currently the last thing i am worried about. Functionality first, then i can work on appearance. All of the joints are good. I use flux to help the solder flow. I have good luck with flux. That is where all of that crap came from on the board

magnetomotive

Sat Jul 25 2009, 07:14AM

Registered Member #267 Joined: Mon Feb 27 2006, 09:44PM
Location:
Posts: 46

It looks like there are some cold joints at the bottom of the board. They can come loose and may cause some intermittent failures later on.

hvguy

Sun Jul 26 2009, 02:58AM

Registered Member #289 Joined: Mon Mar 06 2006, 10:45AM
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 154

Ya, carb cleaner is great stuff, it's like the duck tape of solvents, looks great shot through a lighter too

Soldering is definitely an acquired skill, keep at it and stick with the highest quality iron/solder you can afford and it will pay off. As for the cold joints, ya, a few are a little on the cold side, but I bet they will serve your purposes.

Arcstarter

Sun Jul 26 2009, 05:10AM

Registered Member #1225 Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253

Yea, some of them look cold, but i assure you they are not. I heat most joints for about 2-3 seconds after i melted them, after flowing. The blur is pretty bad, and the solder i am using is not great, i dont think. I got some different solder made for electrical connections and it shines much more. It flows a bit easier. I am think my dad got the wrong stuff, which is weird. The flux also sometimes leaves that brown/black crap on the top of the joints occasionally, but i could wipe that up.

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