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Tabletop SGTC

Move Thread LAN_403
Andyman
Thu Jun 18 2009, 02:26AM Print
Andyman Registered Member #1083 Joined: Mon Oct 29 2007, 06:16PM
Location: Upland, California
Posts: 256
Though I have a number of things left to do on it, here is my latest coil I've been working on. I wanted something that would be easy to take somewhere to demonstrate, so my size was obviously limited. I also want it to be able to function off of just the outlet ground so I needed to design small power. I wanted it to be safe for the most part, unlike my other coils which had all the deadly hv stuff exposed.
The schematic for the coil:
Th
Here is the current outside view:
Th
As you can see, there is still a lot of temporary stuff, namely the tape holding down the primary.
The insides:
Th
Probably the most sloppy part right now, but I still have a number of things to wire up. I need to get a 115V fan to cool my spark gap and I'm waiting for my connectors to come so I can hook up a jack for a dedicated variac as seen in the schematic.
I built the secondary+connections so that no wires ran inside at all:
Th
Th
The pipe section that runs down into the coil is sealed off with an endcap, and the mount for the secondary is the nylon bolt, so the inside is completely isolated. Also, I still need to coat the secondary. I'm going to be lazy this time and use epoxy :/ . The varnish looks nice, but I don't feel like taking so much time for such a small coil.
The front panel:
Th
And what it will look like all turned on:
Th
I saw that switch cover at radio shack and I just HAD to have it. Every tesla coil control panel needs to have one of those tongue
Green neon indicates that power is coming in past the rf filter. The uncovered metal switch must be switched on and powers up the fan cooling the spark gap (future addition). The final saftey switch turns on the red neon which indicates that there is power to the variac and so the hv system is hot. I have a little momentary switch on the rim of the crate so if the lid is opened, all power is cut off to prevent any stupid mistakes on my part.
This is a view of the back side. You can't really see a whole lot, but then again, there isn't a whole lot there right now.
Th

I've tested the coil before adding all the extra stuff, and I pulled around 10 inch strikes to a hand held rod, and about 8 inch streamers. If I increase the coupling and quench my spark gap, I should be able to reach a foot or more. I will also hopefully be adding a sheet or mesh screen of metal under the whole coil as a counterpoise so I don't have to rely so much on a top quality line ground.
I had originally wound a conical secondary for this project and coated it with epoxy inside and out, but it flashed over on the inside and burned itself and died on the first light. cry I think the angle of incline was to great or something. I hope to someday try to revive it.
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