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4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
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Ring Wire Connectors - safe for use with Capacitor Pulse Banks??

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Hon1nbo
Thu Jun 04 2009, 05:10PM Print
Hon1nbo Registered Member #902 Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 1042
ok, so I have realized that this might potentially be an issue: in my pulse bank project, I did not consider that these crimp on rings, even if reinforced, might not be up to the challenge of a High Energy Pulse...

so what type of connection is best for a pulse bank?, when only single wires rather than parallel connections are used, as those are too extreme for my size... for now, at least
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HV Enthusiast
Thu Jun 04 2009, 05:45PM
HV Enthusiast Registered Member #15 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
The connection itself depends on surface area between the capacitors and the connecting lug. You'll notice that most large electrolytics, the surface area on the screw hole ring on the capacitor is not very large. Therefore, whether you use a ring lug or large plate of copper bus bar, you're not really going to see a difference as a ring lug will typically extend beyond this ring.

However, you will see a difference on the type of wire being used. Thinner wire has more impedance than a large copper bus bar.

Also, the screw itself should never be considered as a current carrying component of your connection. Only the surface area.
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rp181
Thu Jun 04 2009, 06:28PM
rp181 Registered Member #1062 Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
The best way would be bar to bar. With your energy, those would last decently long, but as said, would be worse than bars.

In another case, with 1.3kJ, alligator clips burned at the crimped part, so it may not work.
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Hon1nbo
Thu Jun 04 2009, 06:35PM
Hon1nbo Registered Member #902 Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 1042
these connections are not for directly to the capacitors (those are bus bar connections), but for the output to the load and back (e.g: from the triggered spark gap to the load, such as a launching coil, and back to the HV return... I cannot, practically, have fixed bars for THAT now can I?)
also I know to never consider the screw as the connection...
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Z28Fistergod
Fri Jun 05 2009, 01:29AM
Z28Fistergod Registered Member #2040 Joined: Fri Mar 20 2009, 10:13PM
Location: Fairfax VA
Posts: 180
I always like to solder the crimp, to decrease resistance and for the structural benefits. Are you opposed to having multiple leads in parallel? Or, another way would be to use, say.....1/0, car audio amplifier wire and the battery ring terminals. These are pretty large and should be able to handle quite a bit. Yet another way would be to use the 1/0 wire and fan it out into 6 smaller normal sized ring terminals. If it were me though, I would use the car audio components.
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rp181
Fri Jun 05 2009, 02:36AM
rp181 Registered Member #1062 Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
Yes, you can =) You can have two bars poking out, like a inch. Get some cables (for yours, I say 4 AWG minimum, look for car battery cables), they come with lugs, and use bolts to hold them on. look at storm copper, they have a broad range, with 12",24",36",48" lengths, all come with lugs already attached.
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Hon1nbo
Fri Jun 05 2009, 03:29AM
Hon1nbo Registered Member #902 Joined: Sun Jul 15 2007, 08:17PM
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 1042
rp181 wrote ...

Yes, you can =) You can have two bars poking out, like a inch. Get some cables (for yours, I say 4 AWG minimum, look for car battery cables), they come with lugs, and use bolts to hold them on. look at storm copper, they have a broad range, with 12",24",36",48" lengths, all come with lugs already attached.

Ok, that is what I planned to do - I have some 4AWG Car Audio cables, and I have access to 0 AWG as well... I'll see if I can get some with the lugs already on them for when I upgrade the cables (the ones I have right now are a little on the short side anyways, I just had them lying around)
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