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Registered Member #2163
Joined: Sat Jun 06 2009, 10:49PM
Location:
Posts: 12
Very nice work! I would advise you get a very small TEC (10mm square or so) mount it on a heavy heatsink (for the heat capacity) and then install the thermistor somewhere in the heatsink. Then you can maintain a stable zero by comparing the baseline temperature of the TEC to the baseline temperature of the thermistor. That is how the high end coherent sensors can keep a stable zero at any temperature.
I have heard of people using black epoxy as an absorber.
Registered Member #99
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:10PM
Location: florida, usa
Posts: 637
I wonder if the aluminum cube idea painted black could be improved by using graphite instead? Seems it would handle alot more power than a painted surface. Matt
Registered Member #96
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4062
Pyrolytic graphite + LM35 or other / I2C temp sensor? :)
would need calibrating but shouldn't be too hard, LM35s can be removed from dead HP and some Epson printers as they are used for feedback of temperature to adjust the power to the jets (stops fade etc)
Registered Member #151
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 02:53PM
Location: Poland
Posts: 153
... wrote ...
For higher powers I would recommend putting a thermistor on the tec, and running it in a a control loop (for simple experiments a simple proportional control would probably work fine but a full pid loop would speed up the response considerably). You can compare the power it takes to keep the tec at a constant temperature with no load vs what it takes to keep it at the same temperature with the laser shining on it, which you could then use to extract the laser power using the specifications from the tec data sheet. Although due to various nonlinearities you really are better off dumping the tec altogether and just using a resistor mounted to the heatsink, and keeping the heatsink at a constant temperature. By looking at the difference in power fed to the resistor with the laser on and off you can accurately extract the laser power.
This is very good though in my opinion. Seems like the power of the light can be determined precisely with only a good volt and amp meter (for measuring the power dissipated in the resistor) and no other calibration.
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