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Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
I own a 4ft rod that I picked up from a hobby store. It's music wire, and it's 4mm diameter. I cannot drill it because it just destroys my drill bits and even cut 1cm off my last one when i thought it was drilling. Not a mark. So i looked it up, and music wire is suppose High tension carbonized steel. Really strong shit that's made to hold tons of force. So, Can I just simply wrap say 3 inches of stripped wire around it and hammer it into the ground? I cant drill a hole in it without killing bits so i have a terminal. What else is there to do!
Registered Member #397
Joined: Wed Apr 19 2006, 12:56AM
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 125
You can drill hardened steel, but it requires drill bits and grind geometries that not available at consumer hardware stores like Home Depot. Wrapping wire around it wouldn't be good enough unless you have some sort of clamping system to clamp the wire coil around the rod itself. You don't want resistance to gradually increase as the surfaces oxidize. You can get a fairly good idea how to fabricate one by looking up images of "grounding clamps" on the Internet. In fact, there hardware store might have a grounding clamp that would work for you, saving some fabrication efforts. Treat it with some corrosion inhibiting paste for electrical contacts and you should be good to go.
I'm not sure how well steel works as a grounding rod since copper is ideal. It's better than nothing I suppose. Someone more knowledgeable might chime in on the performance gap between copper and steel as a grounding rod.
Registered Member #2123
Joined: Sat May 16 2009, 03:10AM
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 312
Livestock/farming fencing supply stores carry grounding posts for use with hot-wire fence HV supplies.
CesiumSponge is correct about the clamping approach to attaching a wire to the post. That is the most reliable way.
For electronic equipment, sometime a thick-walled Cu-alloy perforated pipe filled with hygroscopic salts is used to maintain good contact with earth where soil moistrue is not that great.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
What if i bench-grind around the rod so its more a ) ( shape, stripe a stranded wire and put it around the ) ( shape? That way the wire is on the freshly sliced metal that is more in the core...
Registered Member #397
Joined: Wed Apr 19 2006, 12:56AM
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 125
You really need to clamp it on there. Wrapping a coil of wire around something won't fasten it securely because it'll untension a certain amount the second you stop winding, unless you wrap the coil around a slightly smaller diameter coilform, then press fit it onto your grounding rod. A grounding clamp should be less than $5, I am sure you can find any manner of non-grounding clamps like pipe hangers and pipe clamps which would work just as well at the hardware store with some imagination...anything to mechanically fasten your wire against the ground rod.
Registered Member #1643
Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 06:10PM
Location:
Posts: 1039
It was for RF, but I've been told to just use a rod and hammer it into the ground to fix RF (tesla coil) i mean, currently my tesla was grounded through a railroad track (toy train) 3ft into the ground. My tesla coil did work, and I manage to get tiny streamers considering it was a first test. I wonder if a Tungsten drill bit would do the job...Too bad I dont own one but i know where to buy one
Considering how fast i oddly killed my mosfet, i decided to just go SSTC.
I can run my mosfet for over 5 mins with a rotary sparkgap and leyden jar. Once you add the tesla coil, few mins, i shot the mosfet. So, I put a metal can above the mosfet, snubber, and diode bridge. Fully cased with metal, grounded it through the outside 3-ft track, and it STILL died. I have no TVS diodes at this time, and its being triggered by pin 3 (16V) 10ohm resistor. My power supply is 16V for the 555 (18V max) and last i checked, IRFP460 (500V 20A) can go up to 50V i THINK...
Anyways, yes, this is for RF grounding outside my window, under our deck. And it's a slope, constant shade, so it's usually wet. Considering it's michigan here and water table is maybe 30ft due to my area... but i cant say that for sure. All I know is the soil under my deck will be wet for awhile due to the down hill slant and shade.
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Forget the steel 4mm rod. Go to your local Lowes or Home Depot and buy a "real" grounding rod (copper coated) and grounding rod clamp. Will cost you about $10.00.
Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
Steel is definitely more resistive than copper. Make a primary for a Tesla coil out of steel, and you will see what i mean -.-. But for this, i do not think a bit of resistance will hurt. After all, it is a small coil. Also, i am sure the wire will have plenty of resistance, he will have to use 10's of feet of rather thin wire, if i understood him correctly.
Here is something you CAN do. Get two bolts a bit longer than the thickness of your rod (at least), and cut two pieces of metal from something like that VCR. Drill two holes on the sides of the metal, and put the screws through the two, put the nuts on, put some wire on the rod and clamp it down. That was very vague, but i think you understand.
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