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Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: High Voltage
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Homemade Spotwelder

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Omicron
Wed Mar 29 2006, 10:26PM Print
Omicron Registered Member #131 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 09:25PM
Location:
Posts: 185
On google I found some people who built spot welders for their projects using MOTs, I never got my MOT to work so I started making a spot welder.

I cut off the secondary with a dremal and removed it.
Next I will wind the secondary with 4-gauge wire.
The sparks and high currents will be shielded by ¼ in, Plexiglas.
It will be triggered with a chicken stick if course.

One question though, will it be sufficient to weld stainless steel for an inner grid for a fuser?
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G^3
Thu Mar 30 2006, 12:10AM
G^3 Registered Member #97 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:40PM
Location:
Posts: 61
First off why is this in the high voltage section? You don't need to use a chicked stick because the voltage is so low. I have made one and it didn't create many sparks.
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Omicron
Thu Mar 30 2006, 01:00AM
Omicron Registered Member #131 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 09:25PM
Location:
Posts: 185
I like to be safe and keep my skin, sparks don't matter as a mesure of power.
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Conundrum
Fri Mar 31 2006, 11:47AM
Conundrum Registered Member #96 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4062
I made some DIY spotwelding electrodes here using a copper bracelet, Dremel and some copper pipe. Cable is power audio (several hundred strands) soldered to the bracelet and pipe using silver solder.

Anyone interested? I never got around to finding a way to reliably switch the several kA required, also the required nickel plate was nearly impossible to obtain.

Email or PM me and I'll put up a picture.
-A
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johnf
Sat Apr 01 2006, 07:05AM
johnf Registered Member #230 Joined: Tue Feb 21 2006, 08:01PM
Location: Gracefield lower Hutt
Posts: 284
Spot welding is all about current and time. stainless is easy as it is a poor conductor so it heats locally near the electrodes very well. The inner grid for the fusor will only use 10% of the power or less of the MOT. I use a 100 watt core at work to spot weld new filament supports for ionisation gauges / grid structures (tungsten) and use a timer to control the output of the transformer a torroid type with 5 turns out of 2 gauge wire. typical time to weld = 0.2 secs 16 gauge tungsten wire.

good clean highly conductive electrodes are needed ie copper sparpened to concentrate the heat. Pressure is also needed between the two electrodes to help the joint and should remain until the joint has cooled sufficiently. As to the comment that this is not high voltage --- it is a necessary skill to support high voltage that probably should remain
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Omicron
Sun Apr 02 2006, 04:03AM
Omicron Registered Member #131 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 09:25PM
Location:
Posts: 185
Man, is it hard to remove the secondary, I am still working on it any ideas?
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G^3
Sun Apr 02 2006, 05:23AM
G^3 Registered Member #97 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:40PM
Location:
Posts: 61
Hack saw off one side of the secondary and pound the mess of wires out with a big piece of metal and a hammer
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Omicron
Sun Apr 02 2006, 07:58PM
Omicron Registered Member #131 Joined: Fri Feb 10 2006, 09:25PM
Location:
Posts: 185
thats what I am doing...
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Steve Conner
Sun Apr 02 2006, 11:20PM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Use more brute force then! :P I never bother trying to cut through the windings though. I usually saw the core apart, bash the secondary coil off the core in one piece using a hammer and piece of wood, fit whatever new secondary I want, and then clamp the core together again with two lengths of all-thread.
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Sun Apr 09 2006, 07:30PM
Registered Member #256 Joined:
Location:
Posts: 124
or if you have a angle grinder and a cut off wheel you can get the core apart really fast, and if you weld it back together it works better in my opinion, also steve do you use allthread and drill through the whole core?!?!?
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