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Registered Member #1062
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
I tested all the capacitor's. They all leak at about 1v every minute. Im going to rebuild the entire bank to make sure its not any insulation problems.
Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
rp181 wrote ...
I tested all the capacitor's. They all leak at about 1v every minute. Im going to rebuild the entire bank to make sure its not any insulation problems.
If you tested it with a regular multimeter, and kept it on there, it leaked through the resistor. The resistor is something like 1megohms? Unless you just tested after a minute instead of watched for a minute. In any case, that sounds pretty slow to me.
Registered Member #1262
Joined: Fri Jan 25 2008, 05:22AM
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 451
Is it possible that some capacitors have loose connections, and are sparking when a cap at 0V closes the circuit with the rest of the bank? I've had this with flash cap banks before, check your connections.
Registered Member #1062
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
Its fixed, i got a PM from a member, he had this problem to. It turns out that the aluminum bus bars was oxidizing and forming layers, so the connection to the terminals was bad. It would also explain the pits under the terminals.
Registered Member #543
Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
If you turn the screw slowly, and with just enough pressure, you can always tell when it has reached the end of its travel just before the threads begin to slip. No need for any great pressure here - it's not an engine part!
Just make sure the parts are electrically clean - a very light sanding with fine grit paper, and a wipe over with methylated spirit (denatured alcohol/wood alcohol) will be perfectly adequate for this sort of job.
Make sure there are no metal particles or other bumps and lumps on the surfaces that would prevent them closing completely together. If a trapped metal particle was keeping the surfaces even slightly apart, then all the current would have to flow through that point causing local heating, and even arcing in the worst case.
The joint should be done up hard enough to make sure no air can get in to oxidize the conductive mating surfaces, which seems to be what happened in your set up before.
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