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Registered Member #99
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:10PM
Location: florida, usa
Posts: 637
The guy claimed 808nm goggles. I just backed off the subject with him "You know, OD12 = Power*10^-12, dont you?" He then claimed he had also some OD16 and put two together and still wasnt safe...Uggg...Some people?
I was thinking about this :
Looks like it has it all...Just need to figure a way to clamp the fap800 to the waterblock. (It has indium foil on its bottom, clamped between the laser diode and the heatspreader.) How much force do I need to clamp the two together? Just enough to tighten some bolts down?
I wish those water cooled laser diodes were fiber coupled! Such a shame! A butter of a laser Matt
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
That should work, although I do not really like the look of that waterblock. The ones that just have a channel that water runs through have horrible thermal conductivity. Although the $130 for a pump/radiator isn't horrible.
If it was me I would do pump+waterblock That has a good waterblock and a decent pump, the swiftech site says its should be good for .03w/C which is about what i measured from a similar setup.
for a radiator I would recomend something big in case you decided you want to add in the tec, so is a really nice one or you can get a cheeper/smaller one that has a reservoir in it that should work very well if you go with the bigger one you need one of these And of course some hose and fans, they used to have some awesome $2 fans but now they are $10 but those things move a ton of air. Overall it is about $150-160 but it will moves 2-3x as much as the thermaltake rig
As to clamping the FAP down, it has a petty good heatspreader in it already, so you should have luck attaching the waterblock strait down to the laser. You might need to fabricate some kind of mounting plate for the water block since it will com with one for a computer processor, just rig something that will go from the screw holes in the fap to however the waterblock mounting plate worked. Then crack down on it as hard as you can, especially with indium you need a fair bit of pressure to get a good connection. Of course don't put enough force to bend the baseplate on the laser, but with that copper plate it will take a lot of force. If you wanted to be extra careful you could use the spreader plate you have, or even solder the waterblock down to the spreader plate then bold the fap to the spreader plate. (You can solder both the switftech and the thermal take blocks, since the swiftech block can be removed from the plastic housing and the thermal take block is brazed which melts at a higher temp than solder.
Registered Member #99
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:10PM
Location: florida, usa
Posts: 637
I have also been kicking around another idea. I was thinking about getting a large Al. heatsink with a good flat surface and mounting two high flow fans on the cooling fins. Seems like this would be MUCH cheaper than the water cooling, and much simpler. Two of those fans mentioned ought work well?
So, would it be worth trying air cooling before going liquid cooling? Would it be possible to "blow" hard enough to cool this laser?
Registered Member #56
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:02AM
Location: Southern Califorina, USA
Posts: 2445
It might be worth it to try with a decent aluminum heatsink, although what I would do is get a nice big heatpipe based computer heatsink. seems like it would even give some water cooling rigs a run for their money!
Registered Member #1774
Joined: Wed Oct 22 2008, 02:51AM
Location:
Posts: 135
If you do want to use computer aircooling then Id suggest a Thermalright ultra 120 extreme, I Have one in my pc and it beats the thermaltake watercooling kit posted earlier. It is the best aircooler there is. Although it costs allot, you might find it cheaper at a pc store rather than on amazon (Its $65 on amazon)
EDIT: also I wouldnt worry about it not handling the heat, it can cool my processor down to below 60c and it puts out over 100watts of heat, just make sure o get a fan with extremely high cfm
Registered Member #99
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:10PM
Location: florida, usa
Posts: 637
Hello, I was thinking about one of these heatsinks: And two of the fans from the computer store mentioned earlier. This guy has some smaller heatsinks, same price. If I could get away with a smaller size, it would be more convienient to use. Those heatpipe sinks look a bit tricky to mount the laser to... Matt
Registered Member #99
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:10PM
Location: florida, usa
Posts: 637
BIG UPDATE! BREAKTHROUGH?
So I have another fap800 in module and decided to play around with it some. I know the TEC is speced at 60volts, 7amps max but I gave it 12 instead. (All I have right now for high current supplies). The laser began to cool off!
Ok, so I set the module on an Al. heatsink (large one). No compound, no bolts, just sitting there. I powered up the laser to about 20amps. Thermister value began to decrease quickly as expected. I then gave the TEC 12volts and the thermister value began to QUICKLY climb! While I happily burned things, I watched the thermister go up to 13kohms before I got bored.
Now, this COULD be a big deal for me. Heres the possible catch? 20 amps through the laser diode may not be anything like 50amps through the laser diode. Am I on to something here? The TEC is actually 4 tecs in series. Likely 12volts each. If 50amps is destined to overwhelm the TECs ability to move heat around, could I put them in parallel and control current (to keep from melting the TECs) and be happy?
Using TECs seems to be the easiest way now to solve this heating issue. Water cooling is $$$ and presents challeneges in mounting everything together.
So, should I look into this TEC business a little more? Or am I totally crusing for a bruising? Matt
Registered Member #1774
Joined: Wed Oct 22 2008, 02:51AM
Location:
Posts: 135
Just remember that TEC's will produce more heat on their hot side than they remove from the cold side so you will need to make sure the hot side is adequately cooled or they might fail. Seems like a good idea though, I would definately look into it.
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