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4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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4 MOT supply

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Gunboat
Thu Mar 23 2006, 12:40PM Print
Gunboat Registered Member #338 Joined: Thu Mar 23 2006, 12:28PM
Location:
Posts: 41
I've been reading the messages for about a year now,and it's a great site for info.What I was wondering about was this:I am planning on making a 4 MOT supply and have read that you leave the secondaries of outer MOT's floating,does this mean that I should connect the HV leads of the first two MOT's to the core leads of the outer two and disconnect the outer two from their cores?
another note.I have a 4" secondary 22 inch winding length,two MOT supply,with 10,000 rpm grinder gap,for some reason it doesn't want to spark to the electrodes,or at least just every so oftenam using steel bolts for electrodes right now,would brass be a better choice?
I have a running smaller TC that works just great 2.5" secondary spiral flat primary 14 beer bbottle caps 5 copper pipes for static gap 9Kv 30 ma neon trans...runs great with about 14" streamers...

them main question is,do I disconnect the secondary wires of the outer MOTs and connect them to the HV side if the inner MOTs? or do I leave them connceted to the cores? any and all advice will be greatly appreciated,thanks again.

BTW,been doing thiis for about two years now and am wanting to see the 4incher fire up very badly.

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GimpyJoe
Thu Mar 23 2006, 01:34PM
GimpyJoe Registered Member #316 Joined: Mon Mar 13 2006, 01:30PM
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 212
Yes, disconnect the secondaries from the cores on the outside transformers. Then leave the outer cores floating.
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Hazmatt_(The Underdog)
Thu Mar 23 2006, 04:46PM
Hazmatt_(The Underdog) Registered Member #135 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
I would make sure that the start lead is well insulated. You know these things only have about 5KV worth of insulation and you don't want that coming back to the primary coil.
A lot of people who do this mount their transformers on wood because steel is still a hazard. You know, having ground and core floating from 0-2kv on the same sheet kinda trips the breakers.

The next step up for a rotary would be what you commonly see as a rotary gap. A motor fixed and well mounted to an isolated chassis, good electrodes, that sort of thing.
Mine is sorta a go-between, because I only have a drill press it limits my accuracy and construction techniques, but im at or under 1% deviation.
1143132362 135 FT5281 Mdkrotaryvariant

Now this on the other hand is a really good rotary. I didn't design this one, I'm just using it as an example




1143132362 135 FT5281 4f 1
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Gunboat
Fri Mar 24 2006, 02:32AM
Gunboat Registered Member #338 Joined: Thu Mar 23 2006, 12:28PM
Location:
Posts: 41
thanks for the replies guys,I'm using Greg's design for my RSG.Just went and bought some brass bolts (man them things are expensive!).So far I can't get the thing to fire all of the time,it's more or less intermitent,and when it does spark,it's real weak.I'm using two MOTs right now just to get things going and get the bugs worked out of the system,I have about 10 MOTs and am planning on going with 4 then possinbly 6,that's if my mains will hold up (120V 60Hz).If not I'll just have to run a dedicated line just for the TC,with a BIG breaker and heavy duty line..

thnnaks again ffor the replies .

Just LOVE messing with TCC's and HV..I didn't have all of this access back when I was a lot younger and it was hard as heck to find anything about Tesla,but now that the NET is going real good it's pretty easy to find just about anything.>G<
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