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Registered Member #1107
Joined: Thu Nov 08 2007, 10:09PM
Location:
Posts: 792
Now that most of my projects are on hold because lack of parts i want to make a decent ballast for my nice piggy . I am planning on running it from 220v. I am thinking of modding some mots but there are some things i am unsure of.
1. Will i need a seperate ballast for each 110v line? 2. I am planning to remove the secondarys from the mots and remove primary turns until i get the desired ballasting amperage. Will this work? 3. any other suggestions on easy ballasting methods will be appreciated
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
teslacoolguy wrote ...
Now that most of my projects are on hold because lack of parts i want to make a decent ballast for my nice piggy . I am planning on running it from 220v. I am thinking of modding some mots but there are some things i am unsure of.
1. Will i need a seperate ballast for each 110v line? 2. I am planning to remove the secondarys from the mots and remove primary turns until i get the desired ballasting amperage. Will this work? 3. any other suggestions on easy ballasting methods will be appreciated
1) no 2) No (see 3) 3) The primaries of your MOTs are more or less designed for 110V, and they will take no more. So in any case you will need at least 2 MOTs in series for 220V. You can then connect as much parallel strings of two seriesed MOTs to get the desired amperage.
Now, how to control current? The proper way is to saw off the "I" section of MOT core and insert an airgap until desired current is reached. No need to remove or modify the secondary in any way. I would advise you to use no more than 15A per MOT (if they are large) or 10A (if they are small).
Registered Member #135
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 12:06AM
Location: Anywhere is fine
Posts: 1735
OR you could try to magnetize the core using the HV winding that you are no longer using with a DC current and make a variable reactance choke which is used on large power supplies, neon processing, etc. It will be more work, but would also be an interesting learning experience. I should mention I haven't tried it yet, but this is what the big boys use.
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Saturable reactor can be made from even number of MOTs where you connect the HV windings so their voltage cancels out, and drive the ends with variable DC supply.
However I believe this creates "chopped" waveform much like a TRIAC phase control does, just it is a bit "softer".
Registered Member #540
Joined: Mon Feb 19 2007, 07:49PM
Location: MIT
Posts: 969
Like I said before, You could remove everything from two to three MOTs and then take 12 or 10 awg wire and wrap the wire on till the cores are full. Connect them in series then adjust the current via the air gap. This would work right?
Another method could be a bucket of water with baking soda added and and have PVC pipe that can be raised and lowed over one end of a electrode to adjust the current (both electrodes are on either sides of the bucket). This is also right, right?
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Myke wrote ...
Like I said before, You could remove everything from two to three MOTs and then take 12 or 10 awg wire and wrap the wire on till the cores are full. Connect them in series then adjust the current via the air gap. This would work right?
If you have the money to buy the copper... 10AWG should be good up to approx. 30A.
Registered Member #540
Joined: Mon Feb 19 2007, 07:49PM
Location: MIT
Posts: 969
Dr. Kilovolt wrote ...
Myke wrote ...
Like I said before, You could remove everything from two to three MOTs and then take 12 or 10 awg wire and wrap the wire on till the cores are full. Connect them in series then adjust the current via the air gap. This would work right?
If you have the money to buy the copper... 10AWG should be good up to approx. 30A.
From this table that shows the current carrying capacity of certain awgs I get that 12awg is good for 41A and 10awg is good for 55A...
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Myke wrote ...
From this table that shows the current carrying capacity of certain awgs I get that 12awg is good for 41A and 10awg is good for 55A...
For coil winding it is less. If you would design a quality continuous rated transformer, it would probably be only around 15A. But since we're not caring about efficiency here, 30A can be considered adequate.
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Pole Pig ballasting
. I am planning on running it from 220v. I am thinking of modding some mots but there are some things i am unsure of.
