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Registered Member #63
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:18AM
Location:
Posts: 1425
For a distraction, here's my LM317 in a box with a twelve-way rotary switch to select 1.5V, 3.0V, 3.3V, 4.5V, 5V, 6V, 8V, 9V, 12V, 15V, 20V or 24V. A red 3.5 digit LED displays the output voltage.
Registered Member #580
Joined: Mon Mar 12 2007, 03:17PM
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 410
here is the regulator it refers to (which is actually discussed in last months magazine) but there was a comment about the switching of the voltages in this months.
Let me know how well your capacitor idea works and what value you used.
Registered Member #63
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:18AM
Location:
Posts: 1425
wrote ... here is the regulator it refers to (which is actually discussed in last months magazine)
Hey, that's their old LM317 kit with a pass transistor slapped on.
I left space in the box for some 2N2955 pass transistors, but I'm not expecting so much current.
wrote ... but there was a comment about the switching of the voltages in this months.
Yep, even at 2.5Hz update, I can see from the display that the voltage jumps when I move the rotary switch.
wrote ... Let me know how well your capacitor idea works and what value you used.
I'll put something between output > ADJ, ground > ADJ -- I guess they can be pretty small, because the rotary switch goes *open circuit* after all...
wrote ... Is that display a straight voltmeter module, or a HD44780 display?
Jaycar QP5580.
wrote ... Totally agree! I'd have ended up with a bare PC board without any kind of casing...
Well, for a while I did use a small PCB with an LM7815 and an LM7805 on it, but the heatsinks were too small (pcb-mounted), alligator clips always seem to make their way into it, and there was the risk it would go nuts around my coils, hence the new aluminium enclosure
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not-quite bench power supply
I'd have ended up with a bare PC board without any kind of casing...
