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Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
I have a REALLY nice stereo power supply transformer that no longer works. I think i overheated it. But the weird thing is that it pulls no primary current and has no continuity. Does it maybe have a temperature operated fuse? Maybe once it gets too hot, it will blow? Or do some transformers have a built in 'regular' fuse?
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Yes it is probably some internal thermal fuse. You can try to dig into the transformer for the fuse and then bypass it, as you apparently have nothing to lose...
Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
Dr. Kilovolt wrote ...
Yes it is probably some internal thermal fuse. You can try to dig into the transformer for the fuse and then bypass it, as you apparently have nothing to lose...
That is what i hoped for, but it may also be a blown primary, which i would have to unwind it until i get to broken part and the i would solder it and wrap it in electrical tape, or actually i would just use a butt connector.
Registered Member #152
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 03:36PM
Location: Czech Rep.
Posts: 3384
Arcstarter wrote ...
That is what i hoped for, but it may also be a blown primary, which i would have to unwind it until i get to broken part and the i would solder it and wrap it in electrical tape, or actually i would just use a butt connector.
Well, "blown" primary will read less resistance than a good one because the insulation has broke somewhere. There is no way for the copper wire to melt before the inssulation does.
How long have you had the system. High voltage parts are very prone to breakdown. But before I would investigate that I would look for any fuses that may have blown like Dr.Kilovolt said. But what makes you think that there is a fuse inside the transformer?
Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
ahron11 wrote ...
How long have you had the system. High voltage parts are very prone to breakdown. But before I would investigate that I would look for any fuses that may have blown like Dr.Kilovolt said. But what makes you think that there is a fuse inside the transformer?
Well it came from a quite old stereo. It is not, in any way, high voltage though. It has a 50 volt tap, which is the highest voltage it has. I starteed to take all the laminates off but i stopped for now.. I need to get a new transformer, so if anyone knows of a transformer with 30-50 volts ac and a few amps(2 or more), let me know.
Registered Member #396
Joined: Wed Apr 19 2006, 12:55AM
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 176
Dr. Kilovolt wrote ...
Arcstarter wrote ...
That is what i hoped for, but it may also be a blown primary, which i would have to unwind it until i get to broken part and the i would solder it and wrap it in electrical tape, or actually i would just use a butt connector.
Well, "blown" primary will read less resistance than a good one because the insulation has broke somewhere. There is no way for the copper wire to melt before the inssulation does.
But copper wire can melt along with the insulation - this may be the case. I've had small(ish) transformers do this after a power surge.
Registered Member #162
Joined: Mon Feb 13 2006, 10:25AM
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 3141
Industrially we get many small transformers with open-circuit primaries, the chances are that when you try to repair it you will find a charred mass of wire and insulation that can't be repaired. Sometimes we get lucky - but usually not. Now the hard part is to find a replacement:- If you're lucky you will find just the info. you're after when you don't then some educated guesswork is called for.
The power/VA rating is basically by weight! Find a transformer of similar style and weight to estimate the VA rating. If space allows replace with a higher VA rating since this one must have been marginal.
Ideally you count primary and secondary turns - very time consuming
Voltage ratings of capacitors after rectifiers indicate the maximum possible secondary voltage but many designers (wrongly) use higher voltage ratings than the circuit will ever see, so the actual working voltage will be a little or a lot less than the rated voltage. Look for linear regulators (78xx for example) to get an idea of minimum working voltage.
With your estimate use a variac with a test transformer to operate the circuit. The correct voltage is just between 'everything just about working' and 'where's that smoke coming from?"
Registered Member #1408
Joined: Fri Mar 21 2008, 03:49PM
Location: Oracle, AZ
Posts: 679
Perhaps you could save some money and time by getting a MOT and pulling some of the secondary windings off? I suppose that's a rather long way around the replacement issue .....but depending where you live Radio Shack has a 25-30v PS part of about $10.
Registered Member #1225
Joined: Sat Jan 12 2008, 01:24AM
Location: Beaumont, Texas, USA
Posts: 2253
quicksilver wrote ...
Perhaps you could save some money and time by getting a MOT and pulling some of the secondary windings off? I suppose that's a rather long way around the replacement issue .....but depending where you live Radio Shack has a 25-30v PS part of about $10.
Well the way i ruined it was by running an mot with it for around 700 volts :P. I would just make a modded mot for 50 volts but my mots are so small that with relatively thin wire i could only get around 30 volts(29). I suppose i will take this transformer apart and use the secondary windings for a new secondary on my mot. Thanks for all the help though!
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