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Registered Member #27
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 02:20AM
Location: Hyperborea
Posts: 2058
If you find triggering a SCR too complicated you probably should start with a capacitor that is not capable of killing you 10 times over.
Your schematic will work in theory (you forgot to draw your switch so I am just guessing where you plan to connect your battery) but the SCR will become live and that is not always a good idea.
It all depends on you managing to do exactly what the datasheet says and keeping your fingers well out of the way.
Registered Member #1322
Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 09:11AM
Location:
Posts: 6
I use a bank of SCRs to control a 240vac line. If you're going to control AC you'll need two of those, one for each cycle. Your SCR has about the same specs as mine ... 2.5 volts @ 200ma to trigger 160A Same configuration... Stud mount.
These don't do well with lower currents of a couple amps or less. The output voltage can be a bit distorted and after a trigger pulse it may not continue to conduct. The current at which it will continue to conduct after the trigger pulse is called the holding current. Also keep in mind that once triggered it will continue to conduct until the voltage applied falls to zero.
I'll post the schematics in the morning, I work midnights and am getting ready to go.
Registered Member #1322
Joined: Sat Feb 16 2008, 09:11AM
Location:
Posts: 6
I use opto-isolated trigger circuits. I found if an SCR fails for any reason I don't fry the entire board. I use two of these for each SCR pair. I can trigger them simultaneously or individually. Firing individually is primarily for diagnostics if necessary. The gate resistor is easily calculated depending on the DC available for the trigger, simple ohm's law. If I need 200ma to trigger and I have a 12 volt supply then I'll need 12/.200 = 60^. No need to worry about gate voltage. If you deliver the proper current the voltage will be within spec at the gate. To figure wattage for the above example... 12 * .2 = 2.4 watts. If your trigger is not pulsed and held continuous like a switch then at least double the wattage. For this one I'd probably use a 10 watter for plenty of margin if I wasn't pulsing the trigger. You could use a 1 watt if the pulses are short, like 1ms or less.
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