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Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Driver woes

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Desmogod
Mon Mar 13 2006, 12:52AM Print
Desmogod Registered Member #139 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 11:01AM
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 358
Right, I finally built my driver.
http://old.4hv.org/index.php?board=4;action=display;threadid=5491

I etched it, populated it, all good!
Now I have a few issues. The voltage regulator gets REALLY hot, then dies in the backside until it cools down, also, the tantalum under the UCC37321 keeps blowing.
Now I originally designed this to work with a fullbridge, so the tantalum between the UCC and GDT is specced for that, however, I am driving a halfbridge with it, could that be causing some of the problems?
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HV Enthusiast
Mon Mar 13 2006, 01:02AM
HV Enthusiast Registered Member #15 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
First, check to see what both the input voltage and output voltage is to the voltage regulator. If the voltage differential is high, than that is your problem. Remember, power dissipation of a linear regulator is (Vin-Vout) * Iout. I suspect your input voltage is way too high.

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Desmogod
Mon Mar 13 2006, 01:04AM
Desmogod Registered Member #139 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 11:01AM
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 358
It's about 16VDC into the board from a 1 amp xfmr.
But does that explain why it is killing only one of the tantalums under the non-inverting chip.
It's rated @ 35V btw.
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EEYORE
Mon Mar 13 2006, 02:25AM
EEYORE Registered Member #99 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:10PM
Location: florida, usa
Posts: 637
Desmo wrote ...

It's about 16VDC into the board from a 1 amp xfmr.
But does that explain why it is killing only one of the tantalums under the non-inverting chip.
It's rated @ 35V btw.

What is your voltage regulator rated for?If 15volts DC, then i think your voltage in is just too low and would deffinately cause alot of trouble. Make sure your tantalum is mounted correctly( polarity).

Try taking out all of your chips(if you have them socketed) and run from there, measure voltage and follow where its going. Then replace each chip one by one.
What do you mean that the tantalum is rated for H-bridge use?

matt
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Desmogod
Mon Mar 13 2006, 02:41AM
Desmogod Registered Member #139 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 11:01AM
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 358
tantalum = 10 x gate capacitance of all the mosfets.
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EEYORE
Mon Mar 13 2006, 02:52AM
EEYORE Registered Member #99 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:10PM
Location: florida, usa
Posts: 637
Desmo wrote ...

tantalum = 10 x gate capacitance of all the mosfets.
Oh ok i see now...That shouldnt hurt it at all.

Matt
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vasil
Mon Mar 13 2006, 02:02PM
vasil Registered Member #229 Joined: Tue Feb 21 2006, 07:33PM
Location: Romania
Posts: 506
What kind of regulator do you have? LM78xx will have positive output, but LM79xx would have negative output. Tantalums dont like reverse voltage.

Or maibe the regulator is put in reverse... look at the pins on the datasheet.
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Desmogod
Tue Mar 14 2006, 12:39AM
Desmogod Registered Member #139 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 11:01AM
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 358
Kinda fixed mistrust
It seems to work fine when there is power to the bridge, but if it is left connected up with no juice to the bridge, it either blows the blocking cap, or pops the Tantulum under the non-inverting chip. I reduced the voltage into the board though.
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