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Registered Member #1208
Joined: Thu Jan 03 2008, 05:30PM
Location: Chesterland, OH
Posts: 154
Jasonr wrote ...
you can easily see the caps reversing voltage with a meter. Diodes are cheap insurance, I would use them weather you think you need them or not.
I would use one across the load. and one across the cap bank. I would use the highest current ones you can find.
Jason
yeah, um, i hate to disagree with Jason, who built the god of all railguns(as far as i care) , but since you are using a mechanics switch, which conducts BOTH ways, the caps will ring down with the coil. you will NOT be able to see this ringing without a scope. so yeah, sorry jason, but he's not using SCRs.
Registered Member #158
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 09:53PM
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 282
Andyman - looks like a great project, much like my first induction launcher which also used the 5.25" hard drive platter, regular old insulated wire, and a simple mechanical switch. Even though it wasnt very efficient we were absolutely thrilled with it at the time.
But you can make some huge gains in efficiency with a little more work and $(I'd say less than $50 if you get good deals). Like mentioned above, find yourself some heavy guage magnet wire. I picked up a spool of #13 magnet wire years ago and have built a few coils out of it that worked well. Even doubled the wire up for less resistance (basically two parallel coils together). Secondly, look for a good high current SCR for your trigger. And lastly, a thicker solid platter instead of the large thin hard drive disks. I'm guessing with these simple mods you will at least double your projectiles energy, possible much more. Good luck!
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