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4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Minibrute Construction Thread / FAQs

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Austin
Sat Jun 21 2008, 04:38PM
Austin Registered Member #1169 Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
well everything discussed here was enough for me (does not know much about electronics) to finished building my version of the minibrute. And just look how it turned out! =)

this of course does not imply that you wont stumble upon any other difficulties but thats why this form exists. To help people!

youtube link
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Dr. Drone
Sat Jun 21 2008, 06:08PM
Dr. Drone Registered Member #290 Joined: Mon Mar 06 2006, 08:24PM
Location:
Posts: 1673
shades
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Austin
Sat Jun 21 2008, 06:18PM
Austin Registered Member #1169 Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
Yes i was kind of wondering about that! It has moved since that video. =P
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KresoLiubov
Sat Jun 21 2008, 08:10PM
KresoLiubov Registered Member #1153 Joined: Mon Dec 03 2007, 07:27PM
Location: Croatia
Posts: 213
Austin wrote ...

well everything discussed here was enough for me (does not know much about electronics) to finished building my version of the minibrute. And just look how it turned out! =)

this of course does not imply that you wont stumble upon any other difficulties but thats why this form exists. To help people!

youtube link

Well i know something in electronics but anyway double check of everything is needed.

Your coil works very good. Just a question, what is the current limit there?

Dr. Spark wrote ...

Hi Austin,

Congratulations on the DRSSTC. Nice to see it running indeed! shades

One little thing in video, watch the garage door opener above the coil. confused

I blew the receiver on mine once with a DRSSTC. frown

May want to move the coil over a few feet so not directly under the opener……

Rgs,
Ch



As for your coils they are inspiration how beautiful you make it. Usually personal projects i just lash-up, rarely make it pretty. And now i will try to make something similar to your coils :)
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KresoLiubov
Sun Jun 22 2008, 01:11PM
KresoLiubov Registered Member #1153 Joined: Mon Dec 03 2007, 07:27PM
Location: Croatia
Posts: 213
Dr. Shock wrote ...

If you send me your address, i'll be happy to send you a new 1.6 ohm resistor.

Is it possible for me to buy one Fairrite 5978006401 from you? Shipping&handling included on my cost. I almost found all parts but fairrite does not have this part number and i dont want to pay company shipping and custom tax from company for 1 core. Ultra will stock me with TVS and im ready to go

Second i did list of errors mentioned in this thread. All builders can help to fix what i mistaken, and help Dr. Shock in next revisions.

Collection of errors found within
parts list, schematics and book.

1. C101 decoupling capacitor

This capacitor is not located on bridge board, however oprating
without it will blow the IGBT-s. You will need to add it "manually"

2. c32 exists in schematics but not on the board. Its needed to solder this
capacitor on board

3. Note: put the current transformers on the output of the H-bridge,
not between the MMC. This is not an error, just a reminder

4. c32 not on board. Add manually

5. r28 needs to be OPEN - reminder

6. C81 should be soldered directly on the temperature sensor

7. Unamrked capacitor in top left of board. By EVR:

Yes, this was kind of an optional capacitor. Just as an energy storage reservoir.
Not really needed, but if you put it in there, its not going to hurt anything.
Just helps supply energy to any bypass caps during switching. these capacitors
are typically rated at least 10x the combined bypass capacitance on the board.

8.Swithces on advanced modulator DPDT instead of DPST

9. When setting the current meter, you need to disconnect one lead of the 1.6 ohm resistor.
This is an error in the instructions.




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Rollingblackout
Tue Jul 01 2008, 06:25AM
Rollingblackout Registered Member #1524 Joined: Sun Jun 08 2008, 05:25PM
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 38
Can I get some opinions on this layout. Linked page
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Ultra7
Tue Jul 01 2008, 08:10AM
Ultra7 Registered Member #1157 Joined: Thu Dec 06 2007, 12:11PM
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 307
Rollingblackout wrote ...

Can I get some opinions on this layout. Linked page


Wow, thats cool!
Everyone has plexiglass things going on nowadays, I guess I should start learning to build with it as well.

I want to see how you wire up your relay with that layout.
Also, the heatsink is huge!

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KresoLiubov
Tue Jul 01 2008, 09:08AM
KresoLiubov Registered Member #1153 Joined: Mon Dec 03 2007, 07:27PM
Location: Croatia
Posts: 213
Ultra7 wrote ...

Rollingblackout wrote ...

Can I get some opinions on this layout. Linked page


Wow, thats cool!
Everyone has plexiglass things going on nowadays, I guess I should start learning to build with it as well.

I want to see how you wire up your relay with that layout.
Also, the heatsink is huge!



Looking good i agree. Only thing i would suggest is to put the display board in front logic board. Why have such distance over these ?
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Rollingblackout
Wed Jul 02 2008, 12:37AM
Rollingblackout Registered Member #1524 Joined: Sun Jun 08 2008, 05:25PM
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 38
My goal is too keep all the wiring at the bottom of the base. under the heat sink. Keeping it in place with aluminum tape. As for the display board, I ordered a 36" ribbon cable for the connections. I wanted to have access to the pots on the control board.
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Wirenut
Wed Jul 02 2008, 12:42AM
Wirenut Registered Member #141 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
Can I get some opinions on this layout.

Looks good, but like Ultra7 said, wow, that is definitely overkill on the heatsink.
I wanted to have access to the pots on the control board.

Aha! Good idea!

Collection of errors found within
parts list, schematics and book.


Thanks for doing this Kreso. I plan on eventually building another one, and this makes it a lot easier. I've been meaning to do this for a while, but this thread is really long. This list really sums up the key points in this thread.
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