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Registered Member #1169
Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
I turned on the Tesla for the first time last week. I tested the resonant boards voltages and everything is looking great! I did fry one of the ICs while check the voltages however, and now the over temp light wont turn off. I thought U1 was the culprit however a closer look at the schematic shows that removing U1 actually cuts all power to the IC. Instead of testing EACH IC I just ordered a bunch from digikey. hopefully that will fix the problem.
Note to self! do not test board with ICs in them. I did read the disclaimer posted by Daniel in the book however since my ICs were already in the board I didn't want to take the risk of damaging the leads by removing them from the board. oh the irony....
here are some new pictures!
I talked with some electrical engineer kids at my school, and one of them saw a picture of my wrapped ferrite. he said from the looks of it, it was wrapped incorrectly. Could i get a second opinion from one of you guys. I twisted the blue and white together then wrapped them around the ferrite 20 times. I then took the yellow wire and wrapped it 10 times around the ferrite. there is some overlapping but they are evenly spaced around the ferrite. One of the students said for the best results, I should divide the ferrite into 3 sections and wrap each wire individually around the ferrite in their own sections without overlapping. Any comments would be great.
Registered Member #141
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
One of the students said for the best results, I should divide the ferrite into 3 sections and wrap each wire individually around the ferrite in their own sections without overlapping
I'm not an EE so I can't tell you if this would work better, but I can tell you that your GDT looks exactly like mine, and it seems to work.
Looks like your coil is coming together! What size is the toroid? What size is the secondary? Have you figured out the details (# of turns, winding length, etc.) of the secondary?
Registered Member #1169
Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
my toroid is 4" x 13 and my secondary is 4.5" OD x 18". Exactly what the book specifies. I am just waiting for the board from Anders and then i can start the advanced modulator.
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
wrote ...
I talked with some electrical engineer kids at my school, and one of them saw a picture of my wrapped ferrite. he said from the looks of it, it was wrapped incorrectly. Could i get a second opinion from one of you guys. I twisted the blue and white together then wrapped them around the ferrite 20 times. I then took the yellow wire and wrapped it 10 times around the ferrite. there is some overlapping but they are evenly spaced around the ferrite. One of the students said for the best results, I should divide the ferrite into 3 sections and wrap each wire individually around the ferrite in their own sections without overlapping. Any comments would be great.
No, thats not quite right. Actually, the students are wrong, and the way you wound it doesn't seem correct as well.
One of the most important parameters of this transformer is the coupling factor, which determines what the leakage inductance of the windings are.
To maximize coupling, and minimize leakage inductance, the windings need to be wound trifillar and as tightly as possible.
If you wound as the students said, the leakage inductance would be extremely high (very poor coupling), and your method of winding the secondaries separate and then putting the primary on top of them is also not very good.
I would suggest starting over. Begin by taking three wires, and putting the one end (three wires knotted together) in a cordless drill. Then use the drill to spin and twist the three wires tightly together. Then, wind 20 turns around the core.
For the primary, that needs 10 turns, you would first wind this bundle of three wires 10 turns. Then pull out a loop at the 10th turn and twist this loop together. Then continue winding the rest of the 10 turns. Then cut the pulled out loop, and make a parallel winding with it.
Registered Member #1169
Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
EastVoltResearch wrote ...
wrote ...
I talked with some electrical engineer kids at my school, and one of them saw a picture of my wrapped ferrite. he said from the looks of it, it was wrapped incorrectly. Could i get a second opinion from one of you guys. I twisted the blue and white together then wrapped them around the ferrite 20 times. I then took the yellow wire and wrapped it 10 times around the ferrite. there is some overlapping but they are evenly spaced around the ferrite. One of the students said for the best results, I should divide the ferrite into 3 sections and wrap each wire individually around the ferrite in their own sections without overlapping. Any comments would be great.
No, thats not quite right. Actually, the students are wrong, and the way you wound it doesn't seem correct as well.
One of the most important parameters of this transformer is the coupling factor, which determines what the leakage inductance of the windings are.
To maximize coupling, and minimize leakage inductance, the windings need to be wound trifillar and as tightly as possible.
If you wound as the students said, the leakage inductance would be extremely high (very poor coupling), and your method of winding the secondaries separate and then putting the primary on top of them is also not very good.
I would suggest starting over. Begin by taking three wires, and putting the one end (three wires knotted together) in a cordless drill. Then use the drill to spin and twist the three wires tightly together. Then, wind 20 turns around the core.
For the primary, that needs 10 turns, you would first wind this bundle of three wires 10 turns. Then pull out a loop at the 10th turn and twist this loop together. Then continue winding the rest of the 10 turns. Then cut the pulled out loop, and make a parallel winding with it.
But defintitely start over.
So should it look something like this? I didn't understand the last part of your reply when you said "Then pull out a loop at the 10th turn and twist this loop together. Then continue winding the rest of the 10 turns. Then cut the pulled out loop, and make a parallel winding with it".
Please note that each of the 4 sections represent 5 turns for a total of 20
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Not sure what you are trying to show there.
Anyways, here is what the winding should look like. Blue and Red are the secondary windings. Green is the parallel primary winding. The center of the green primary is where you would have pulled the loop out and then cut it to split the winding.
Registered Member #195
Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 08:27PM
Location: Berkeley, ca.
Posts: 1111
eastvolt fogive me if i am out of place but why do need to twist 3 wires for primary and 3 for sec when your book sais there are 2 paralell primary windings of 10 turns and 2 secondary turns of 20 turns. Does your students know about the phasing dots and there importance.
Registered Member #105
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:54PM
Location:
Posts: 408
You don't need 3 primary and 3 secondary, but you do need to twist 3 wires together. These three wires will eventually serve as the primary and two secondaries. After twisting, wind however many turns you need for the secondary. Count in from either side to find the center of the winding, and pull out one of the wires- you want to divide one wire into two separate windings with 1.2 the turns (all you need to do is cut one wire). Now you will have two windings with 20 turns each, and two windings with 10 turns each. Make sure the phase is correct on the 10 turn windings, and put the two in parallel to create the primary coil.
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