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Forums
4hv.org :: Forums :: Tesla Coils
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Minibrute Construction Thread / FAQs

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HV Enthusiast
Sun Feb 03 2008, 04:06AM
HV Enthusiast Registered Member #15 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Austin wrote ...

The primary and base of the coil are done.... well almost, I ran into a snag. The books states that I only need 10-24 machined screws to bolt the primary and the strike rails into the board however the strike rail supports have an 8-32 tap dimension in the schematic. I'm assuming Daniel ment to say "8-32 falt head phillips machine screw, 1" length, stainless steel" instead of "10-24 flat head phillips machine screw, 1" length, stainless steel" in table 3-6. Any comments Daniel? Should I go ahead an order some of those screws?

Size of screw doesn't really make a difference here. Use whatever screws you have already. If you only have 10-24, then drill and tap for 10-24. I believe i meant for the screws to be 10-24 since they were already used for the primary supports.

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Austin
Sun Feb 03 2008, 04:15AM
Austin Registered Member #1169 Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
I don't feel like machining everything again... id rather get some screws that fit I think.
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Austin
Mon Feb 04 2008, 02:39AM
Austin Registered Member #1169 Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
what do you think about this layout? This is approximately where I want everything. I am missing a few items in the pictures, like the terminal block and display board etc. I also think I am going to leave the side walls off for a while till I figure out what material I wanna use for them. I was thinking about using all acrylic on the sides.


1202092185 1169 FT1630 P2030072




1202092185 1169 FT1630 P2030074




1202092186 1169 FT1630 P2030073




1202092186 1169 FT1630 P2030077
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Wirenut
Mon Feb 04 2008, 03:21AM
Wirenut Registered Member #141 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
what do you think about this layout?


I would try to get the MMC board into the airflow a little more. The large DC electrolytic caps don't get hot so you can move them. Also the MMC should be .11uF - you need to remove one of the caps and replace it with a jumper wire. The primary and strike rail look good.
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Austin
Mon Feb 04 2008, 03:40AM
Austin Registered Member #1169 Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
Putting the primary and strike rail was a major pain to say the least. It did turn out nice I agree. I have no idea how I am going put that 1/4" copper tube through the PVC to connect it to the MMC. Its so hard to bend.

[MODERATOR: Fixed Double Posting]

Wirenut wrote ...


Wow, your coil is going to look much nicer than mine! Looks like you have access to all the equipment to do everything right.


One of the many benifits to being an Engineer on a college Campus. I'm using the mechanical engineer shop! its very nice inside, ill try to get a better shot of the whole shop cause its huge. Steve Adams, the shop instructor almost didn't let me do this project because the equipment isn't suppose to be used outside of class projects and senior design, however he thought building a tesla coil was the coolest thing ever! amazed

sorry for the double post, please don't kill me!
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Wirenut
Mon Feb 04 2008, 03:52AM
Wirenut Registered Member #141 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
I have no idea how I am going put that 1/4" copper tube through the PVC to connect it to the MMC. Its so hard to bend.

You don't have to put the copper tube through the pvc, you can solder the primary leads directly to the primary (you have to do this anyway) and run the flexible wire leads through the pvc. On my setup, I have the lower end of the primary sticking through my acrylic top. This was a major pain, as I had to first wind the primary, then remove all the primary support screws, then bend the first turn down, feed it through the acrylic, and finally re-attach all the primary supports.
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HV Enthusiast
Mon Feb 04 2008, 03:53AM
HV Enthusiast Registered Member #15 Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Yes, you do want to make sure your MMC is in the cooling flow of the heatsink. The MMCs were designed to be cooled by air.

Also, if you follow the design in my book, you want (3) capacitors, not (4) as you have it. Add a shorting bus on the 4th position.

And more than likely you will also need to shield the control electronics since they are so close to the primary coil. (Use copper)
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Austin
Mon Feb 04 2008, 06:38PM
Austin Registered Member #1169 Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
Yup, I certainly messed up the 4th Cap on the MMC good catch guys. The final stages of my Tesla are now coming into play. All I need is the secondary, and all my boards attached and wired.

Few questions

What is exactly the External 0-140VAC Variac?

Is K121:A just part of the Relay switch? the image denoted in the book makes me think I need to wrap another ferrite or somthing.

Will my MMC fail without airflow if so should I redesign it so it is not as stressed?

Does it matter which way the IGBTS are mounted, Ie Polarity?

Does Polarity matter for 10uF, 1uF, caps as denoted in the diagram?

For JMP41 what is the diffrence between Dot mode and Graph mode?

Thats all I can think of for now! Also another note, I have midterms this week so I will probably be MIA till this weekend. I say this just incase you guys miss me. cry
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Wirenut
Mon Feb 04 2008, 07:34PM
Wirenut Registered Member #141 Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
What is exactly the External 0-140VAC Variac?

A variac is an autotransformer that allows you to vary the input voltage to the bridge. I bought mine from Fry's electronics new for about $75. It is only rated at 500W, but it works fine for short runs with a new larger fuse. Similar ones are available on ebay.
Link2

Is K121:A just part of the Relay switch? the image denoted in the book makes me think I need to wrap another ferrite or somthing.

Yes, it's part of the relay. One half of the relay switches on/off the fan, and the other half of the relay switches a bleeder resistor in/out for the big electrolytics.

Will my MMC fail without airflow

Yes

should I redesign it so it is not as stressed?

If you decide to do this, use these caps:
Link2
If you put them in a 4 series X 3 parallel array, you will get the necessary capacitance of .11uF.

Does it matter which way the IGBTS are mounted, Ie Polarity?

Yes. Link2
The side without the notch is the emitters.

Does Polarity matter for 10uF, 1uF, caps as denoted in the diagram?

You mean on the resonant driver board? If so, then yes for the 10uF tantalum caps, no for the ceramic.


For JMP41 what is the diffrence between Dot mode and Graph mode?

Dot mode will light up only two of the LEDs up to the current level, bar mode will light up all the LEDs below those two also.
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Austin
Tue Feb 05 2008, 01:11AM
Austin Registered Member #1169 Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
50 bux for those Cap... jeez. Maybe ill stick with the current design, I'm just afraid of melting my current caps. I rearranged some stuff, let me know what you think. I still have to take off that 4th cap.


2007 046



2007 047
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