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Registered Member #1169
Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
its been a couple days since my last post. Here an update on the mechanical side of the project.
Picture of me cutting the PVC to proper length for the primary support
Drilling the holes for the primary supports
Threading the holes (The machine just melted the plastic, so I had to hand thread)
Squaring the piece to make sure everything is lined up correctly
Drilling holes in the base
Everything I have so far. believe it or not this is about 8 hours of work. I had no idea building the primary supports would take so long.
The biggest upcoming challenge will be bending the 1/4" O.D. Flexible Copper Tubing into a semi circle. Anyone have some suggestions on how I might be able to do this? Easternvoltage?
My goal will be to have the entire mechanical portion of this project done by Sunday. Then I will be able to start laying everything out inside the base. I'm sure I will have plenty of questions then.
Oh btw Wirenut, I ordered those heatsinks you suggested, they ship tomorrow and should be here sometime next week. Thanks for the tip, you have been a major help!
Registered Member #141
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
update on the mechanical side of the project.
Wow, your coil is going to look much nicer than mine! Looks like you have access to all the equipment to do everything right.
believe it or not this is about 8 hours of work. I had no idea building the primary supports would take so long.
I believe it! It took me and a friend a full day to build my base and primary, and it was all wood except the acrylic top.
The biggest upcoming challenge will be bending the 1/4" O.D. Flexible Copper Tubing into a semi circle. Anyone have some suggestions on how I might be able to do this?
The copper tubing comes pre-coiled, and I recommend leaving it in this pre coiled shape. I started threading the tubing through the holes from the top down, slightly bending the tubing into a tighter radius as needed. Because of slight imperfections in my primary support hole locations, threading the tubing through the holes became difficult about halfway through, and by the end, I had two other people helping me with each of us grabbing a third of the coils and pushing in unison to finish the job. I think it may be easier for you because the friction of your pvc supports should be lower, and my wood primary supports were thicker than specified.
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
You shouldn't have any problem winding your primary. The copper coils are prewound so just thread it through slowly. The only difficult part is actually the 1st turn on the 1st two primary supports. Once you make that, then the copper coil just follows its way up. Anytime the coil seems stuck, just make sure its going in straight at that first support its entering from your coil of copper as thats where it will usually snag.
Yes, wood is a bitch, especially if its thicker. Plastic goes smooth as butter.
Registered Member #141
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
I was referring to the strike rail
Strike rail should be a piece of cake compared to the primary. You could find something like a bucket or pot that is the approximate size to bend it around.
Registered Member #141
Joined: Sat Feb 11 2006, 01:14PM
Location: Southern California
Posts: 96
I wonder how I should cut it...
If you want it to look really pretty, then go buy a pipe cutter from home depot - they should only cost a couple bucks in the small size you need. As for me, I just used some linesman's pliers that of course flattened the end of the tubing, but I was able to get it semi-round again with the pliers and a steel punch.
Registered Member #15
Joined: Thu Feb 02 2006, 01:11PM
Location:
Posts: 3068
Wirenut wrote ...
I wonder how I should cut it...
If you want it to look really pretty, then go buy a pipe cutter from home depot - they should only cost a couple bucks in the small size you need. As for me, I just used some linesman's pliers that of course flattened the end of the tubing, but I was able to get it semi-round again with the pliers and a steel punch.
*edit pic link added
Actually, the strike rail should be made of 3/8" diameter tubing, not 1/4". Doesn't make a difference functionally other than the 3/8" looks better (IMHO for a strike rail), and a bit stronger since it only has 4 supports.
You can buy short lengths of 3/8" tubing at Lowes, etc...
Registered Member #1169
Joined: Wed Dec 12 2007, 09:16AM
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 251
yes your right i got my fractions mixed! 3/8th" is bigger than 1/4" =P
I am now ready to start wiring and mounting the resonant board, half bridge, MMC, feedback transformers, and etc to the base of the tesla. what type of screws or stand offs should I use for Type 1 PVC. I know Wirenut used wood so it was probably easier for him to just screw everything to the wood. My main concern is that i will have to drill all my holes and then put a machined screw though it which would be very time consuming. also do my stand offs need to be grounded as well?
When the schematic refers to "ground" I am assuming it is not referring to the 3rd prong in the outlet of my house. I heard this was bad because the tesla could induce currents in other devices around the house like my plasma TV . If the book truly means "earth ground" (3 foot steel stake in the ground) then how am I suppose to do all the fine tuning and etc? oh better yet operate in the house / garage if i wanted to?
and looking at Figure 2-8 it looks like everything is grounded through the Resonant board... am I correct?
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. If the book truly means "earth ground" (3 foot steel stake in the ground) then how am I suppose to do all the fine tuning and etc? oh better yet operate in the house / garage if i wanted to?