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Registered Member #1062
Joined: Tue Oct 16 2007, 02:01AM
Location:
Posts: 1529
i got a 12v 3A sealed lead acid battery, the charging circuitis broken, how do you charge them? I read somewhere you can just feed 7.5v 300ma into it and itle charge. any sugestions?
i have a universal adapter 1.5v to 12v 300ma regulated, so ile go with that. thanks.
Registered Member #72
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
There's a lot of technology surrounding charging SLA's, it's worth visiting a few manufacturer's web sites to see what they say in detail, especially the manufacturer for the particular battery you have, however here's a summary
1) If you're charging a sealed battery, it must not gas. 2) To prevent it gassing, the final charge rate must be low enough so that the oxygen recombination cycle can absorb the overcharge 3) Depending on the battery manufacturer, the recombination limit may be anywhere from C/100 to C/1000 4) Constant current charging at either of those rates would be tedious (unless it's a float application), so we need to constant voltage charge 5) Most batteries (again depending on maufacturer) will drop to a suitable recombination rate if the terminal voltage is held at 13.8v for a 12v battery. 6) Most batteries will still be fairly slow to reach their full capacity if only charged at 13.8v 7) So many recommend a timed blast of 15v, current limited to somewhere between C/3 (the excellent but expensive Hawker Cyclons) and C/10 (most other rubbish), dropping back to a 13.8v float once the current has fallen below a threshhold value.
BTW, SLAs don't have memory effect and do get damaged by deep discharge, so whereas NiCds would be fully discharged then fully charged for best life, SLAs like to be topped up as often as possible for best life.
Registered Member #30
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
I've always charged those little SLA batteries by plugging them into a regulated lab power supply set to a voltage of 14.4V, and a current limit of one-eighth of the battery's Ah rating, and leaving them overnight. The 7.5V you quoted would be about right for a 6V battery, but useless for a 12V one.
This probably won't be much help if you don't have a lab power supply - maybe your school science lab might have one?
The only other advice I can give is don't use a car battery charger, unless the battery is old and you don't care about it. It'll probably just wreck the battery after a few charges, and might even make it gas and blow up.
Registered Member #72
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 08:29AM
Location: UK St. Albans
Posts: 1659
My car regulates its battery charge at 14.1v.
The advice from Hawker is for float applications use 13.8v, for cyclic use 15v followed by 13.8v, and for general purpose applications, err on the side of over-charging rather than under-charging, as it will give you more cycles of decent battery capacity. The loss of capacity through under-charging is worse than the steady loss of electrolyte through slight over-charge, for a lifetime of several years.
So 13.8v is bomb-proof, around 14v -14.5v will cause tolerable loss over a reasonable lifetime, much more will need to be actively terminated.
Registered Member #690
Joined: Tue May 08 2007, 03:47AM
Location: New Jersey, USA
Posts: 616
For hot-wire cutter and electrolysis use, a 6 volt battery would probably be better. Barring that, I would just do what Mates said and use a 14V or so supply with a power resistor in series.
But thats only because I'm not patient enough to order a premade charger off ebay, even though it would work better.
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