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Registered Member #146
Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:21AM
Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 1055
To Steve: I have measured the IGBTs, and they have no short circuit...
*laughs to himself*. Mine dont usually measure short circuit when they fail either (im sure you can think of why).
In any case, i do hope that the IGBTs are ok, but short circuit test doesnt tell you if all the bonding wires inside have decided to vaporize. Often times, it cracks the case open if this happens, but ive had them still in tact externally with all internal connections "missing". The diodes almost always survive.
Registered Member #795
Joined: Mon May 21 2007, 06:04PM
Location: Bocholt, Germany
Posts: 35
Okay you are right. The test is not meaningful...
But I had killed one of that IGBTs with overcurrent in an coilgun. Afterwards it had short circuit...
I can just hope they are okay and test it the next week... I still have 4 of these half-bridge IGBTs left, so the coil is not dead even if they are broken...
Registered Member #30
Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
That's a shame that it blew up :( You got some really impressive results first, though!
Marko, I think those metal hoses might get induction-heated to destruction, unless they're made of a low-loss material like non-magnetic stainless steel or copper braid, or you put both primary leads through the same hose to cancel the flux. You still have to worry about flashovers between primary and secondary. I think that bypassing your DC bus solidly to ground is a good way to protect against flashovers and strikes. It has to be the same ground as your drive electronics, or the impulse voltage can break down the gate drive transformers.
BTW, what finally killed my OLTC2 was a strike from the topload to the control wiring, even though it was shielded and transformer isolated at both ends. Lightning never strikes twice in the same place, because after it's struck once, there's nothing more left to wreck ;)
Registered Member #89
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 02:40PM
Location: Zadar, Croatia
Posts: 3145
Marko, I think those metal hoses might get induction-heated to destruction, unless they're made of a low-loss material like non-magnetic stainless steel or copper braid, or you put both primary leads through the same hose to cancel the flux. You still have to worry about flashovers between primary and secondary.
Yeah, those shower hoses are of stainless steel, not very magnetic but that might vary... I don't know how much would they heat on large coils like this.
It's just an idea I wondered if someone could try out.
Braided hoses are aluminium or stainless... if you want to be 100% sure use aluminium braided hoses. :p
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