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4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics
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New synchronous motor?

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IamSmooth
Sat Jun 09 2007, 02:50AM
IamSmooth Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567
By monkeying around I was referring to the time/effort it will take to get the motor to work as a synchronous motor and not any inherent danger with taking a motor apart and scraping it with a file. I would think the time would be better spent doing other things and just spending the money to get a working component.

I have taken them apart and the rotor is a permanent magent surrounded by electromagnetic poles. The rotation rate (rpm) = 60*120/(poles) An 1800 RPM sych motor has a rotor with two poles and a stator with 4 poles.

60*120/(4) = 1800
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Danielle
Sat Jun 09 2007, 03:02AM
Danielle Registered Member #632 Joined: Mon Apr 09 2007, 01:09AM
Location:
Posts: 267
well thanks all but I have successfully tested it with 2 MOTS and succeeded in getting a working SG but it seams to fire for 1/2 sec and stop, fire for 1/2 sec and stop. I think this is because the motor is out of alignment but it was free so no complaining here.
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Dr. Shark
Sat Jun 09 2007, 07:50AM
Dr. Shark Registered Member #75 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 09:30AM
Location: Montana, USA
Posts: 711
Looks like you build yourself a fine asynchronous rotary gap then smile If you ever get a chance try sticking in a synchronous motor and compare what kind of performance difference you get. For now you have an interrupted spark gap TC, the first ISGTC I am aware of.
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Steve Ward
Sat Jun 09 2007, 08:13AM
Steve Ward Registered Member #146 Joined: Sun Feb 12 2006, 04:21AM
Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 1055
For now you have an interrupted spark gap TC, the first ISGTC I am aware of.


Almost every ARSG ive seen exhibits this behavior, so its no first. But by the sounds of it, it surely is dangerous to his setup. Normally ARSGs run at >240BPS so that even if they miss a firing, the BPS wont drop below 120BPS. Id double up the number of electrodes.
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Danielle
Sat Jun 09 2007, 04:58PM
Danielle Registered Member #632 Joined: Mon Apr 09 2007, 01:09AM
Location:
Posts: 267
Thanks for the advice I have 2 electrodes so I probably should go to 4 Ill cut a plexi circle and mount them to that.
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Steve Conner
Sat Jun 09 2007, 05:24PM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Just the standard warning that spark gap electrodes get very hot, and are subject to high centrifugal forces, and plexi softens with heat. So if you get both your eyes taken out by flying pieces of spark gap, dont say we didnt warn you! (The apostrophe key on my laptop just broke!)
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Danielle
Sat Jun 09 2007, 09:13PM
Danielle Registered Member #632 Joined: Mon Apr 09 2007, 01:09AM
Location:
Posts: 267
I understand then what should I use 1/8" fiberglass I use that in my HP rockets I have some bulk heads 8" OD so that should do.
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Steve Conner
Sun Jun 10 2007, 10:13AM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
Yep, fibreglass should be much better.
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IamSmooth
Mon Jun 11 2007, 01:16AM
IamSmooth Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567
I use Lexan. You can buy it at Home Depot. It has a high heat tolerance.
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Steve Conner
Mon Jun 11 2007, 08:54AM
Steve Conner Registered Member #30 Joined: Fri Feb 03 2006, 10:52AM
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posts: 6706
I wouldn't say Lexan has a "High" heat tolerance. "Sort of meh" more like. I bet it's nowhere near as heat-resistant as G10, Tufnol, etc.

Grinding flats on the rotor of an induction motor converts it to a salient pole (aka reluctance) synchronous motor. It does work, believe it or not. No permanent magnets needed.
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