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Registered Member #61739
Joined: Wed Aug 23 2017, 04:43PM
Location:
Posts: 44
Will it hold up ?
Or do i need to swap to a nema L5-30 twist lock like generators have ?
My plan is to run 25 feet of 10-3 awg power wire to my 3 kva variac to power transformer banks and sutch ...
I was having srs voltage drop issues and extention cord heating with a standard receptical.
Ohh and when i changed the outlet to the new 20amp one in the pic i saw that the old one had 2 white wires and no ground and bolth white wires were only 14-16 awg , that issue was fixed ... i pulled the wireing and breaker and replaced it with 30a 120 v breaker and 10awg wire, however that receptical is only 20 amp rated.
Will 10-3 power cord for a generator be good for 25 feet @ 120v 30amp without voltage drop ???
Registered Member #2099
Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
>> Will 10-3 power cord for a generator be good for 25 feet @ 120v 30amp without voltage drop ???
Duh, work it out from scratch. Or use one of many online calculators. At 30 amps your voltage drop would be less than 1.5%.
>>Generally you'd want 240 vac, that'll cut your drop by half.
Yup. If you can change the breakers and load to 240 V, the current can be halved, and the wire can be reduced by 6 AWG steps for the same percent voltage drop and same wire temperature rise. It would be more compelling if you had to run 100 feet.
>> Will it hold up ? >> Or do i need to swap to a nema L5-30 twist lock like generators have ?
It's against code to use a 20 amp receptacle in a circuit with 30 amp breaker. In case of a fire, your insurance company would tell you to get lost.
Looks like there _is_ a straight blade NEMA option for 30 amps, though I think the twist-and-lock is much more common.
Registered Member #61739
Joined: Wed Aug 23 2017, 04:43PM
Location:
Posts: 44
I can run 240 but i would need to strip down the entire finished product and restart from scratch,
Right now it is a 3kva 30amp continuos dutie variac and then a 3kva 120 to 120/240 isolation transformer tottaly enclosed with switches to select output voltage range
I would have to start over and install 240 30a breakers then still buy new recepticals and plugs then run the isolation transformer in reverse and loose the ability to select taps as it would be a 240/120 to 120 step down , then the variac and then all my meters and a new box and filtering, after i would be useing a 240 outlet but still only getting 120v at 30 amps
A 2 gang 240 or supper beefy 240 variac is tottaly beond my walet ! The big ole 30 a 120 v i got in broken condition , the case and wireing was jacked up but is is in good condition for verry cheap soo ...
This is why i was asking the best way to reduce the drop from a 120 high current breaker.
Seems my best option is to change out to nema L5-30 outlet and twist lock recptical plugs then make a 25 ft 10-3 or better extention cord to the variac
Registered Member #61739
Joined: Wed Aug 23 2017, 04:43PM
Location:
Posts: 44
In the future my ultimate goal here is installing a 30-50 amp 240 volt seperate breaker box that runs to a rotary phase converter for 3 phase power , i have a few of the componants to make it but will take me years to gather the parts ..... but the 240v high current seperate panel for my lab is my next project, then the rotary converter useing a huge 3 phase motor i have 5pluss hp !
I am stopping all projects and focusing on building a decent power system starting from the breaker box and ending at the variac out put in my lab .
For now i want to be able to pull 120v @ 30amps about 25feet without drop under load so i can step it up to 330v 7ish amp or just run it at 120 via swtched output.
Registered Member #2099
Joined: Wed Apr 29 2009, 12:22AM
Location: Los Altos, California
Posts: 1716
"Without drop under load" is impossible, since you can't afford a superconducting extension cord. What your solution has is tolerable voltage drop under load. As stated above: 25 feet of 10 AWG, out and back, should lose less than 1.5%.
For cord-and-plug connected appliances, 1.5 percent is usually considered to be fine. Smaller than ordinary fluctuations in the voltage from your electricity provider. At 30 amps, you would have about 3.6 kVA going to the load, and 54 watts heating the cord & its connectors.
How soon can you connect a test load (perhaps some space heaters, toasters, or MWO's), then measure and report the actual voltage drop of your installation? It will creep up slightly as the cord gets warm.
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