Which 3D printer do you have? (if you have one) / General Science and Electronics / Forums

Forums

4hv.org :: Forums :: General Science and Electronics

« Previous topic | Next topic »

Which 3D printer do you have? (if you have one)

Move Thread

LAN_403

Slava

Sat Oct 21 2017, 10:58PM

Registered Member #518 Joined: Tue Feb 13 2007, 05:20AM
Location: New York
Posts: 168

I have a Monoprice Select Mini V2 ... $220 (I love it but you need to mod and fix it up sometimes)

I want to eventually get a FlashForge Finder

Carbon_Rod

Sun Oct 22 2017, 03:43AM

Registered Member #65 Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:43AM
Location:
Posts: 1155

I have built several custom aluminum Prusa i3 FDM kits for heated 60'C build chambers (Nylon/ABS needs fume extraction too). The $300 kits all had a few key issues during the build, and ultimately end up a custom Rep-Rap RAMPs design variant everytime. Yet if you are experienced, for about $40 in after-market parts they can run for years provided they are oiled before use, and constructed using thread-lock/silicone-RTV glues. Most people are disillusioned by the technology given one must still treat these like a regular CNC machine, and not like an office paper printer.

The official Prusa i3 MKII/III is about $800, but includes many auto-calibration features and Windows printer support.
If you can ever find stock, it removes many of the subtle issues people will encounter.

My biggest complaint about the hobby is the amount of utterly incorrect information people post online, or those shilling terrible options to people just starting out. Like many others, I have seen the plastic parts in cheaper kits fail after 10 months of operation. Sure, you initially saved $100, but end up having to constantly repair/toss/recycle the unreliable machines.

Keep in mind our use case for FDM parts is for mechanical usability, and I tended to customize everything from the driver configuration to the hot end.

2Spoons

Sun Oct 22 2017, 04:47AM

Registered Member #2939 Joined: Fri Jun 25 2010, 04:25AM
Location:
Posts: 615

I rolled my own delta - using aluminium 2020 extrusion, linear bearings and various bits from all over aliexpress. Driven by a Smoothieboard, with steppers from ebay, and extruders and hotend from DTA labs. Printing now, but still being worked on - to do list includes dual extrusion for support material, and a raspberry pi as a server

Justin

Sun Oct 22 2017, 05:21AM

Registered Member #46164 Joined: Wed May 07 2014, 08:16AM
Location: California, USA
Posts: 89

I built a Hadron ORD Bot back when the kits first came out, didn't use it much and sold it. Then last year or so I bought a couple of Makerbot Minis for basically nothing. After fixing the front panel and extruder they've worked okay, I wouldn't recommend them though.

Now I'm building another one with basically leftovers from other projects for the increased build volume.

hen918

Tue Oct 24 2017, 08:27AM

Registered Member #11591 Joined: Wed Mar 20 2013, 08:20PM
Location: UK
Posts: 556

A Solidoodle 2.
Solidoodle went out of business, so it now has a smoothieboard as a controller (very good), and an all new extruder assembly / hot-end when the old one fell apart. I had experimented with an air cooled 500 degree C hot-end, but when the heating element died, I gave up and switched back to the old one.
It is a very robust 3D printer with a solid steel frame made of riveted angle.

Patrick

Wed Oct 25 2017, 12:20AM

Registered Member #2431 Joined: Tue Oct 13 2009, 09:47PM
Location: Chico, CA. USA
Posts: 5639

Flash Forge wooden one. USD 800. (I think the metal ones were $1400 at the time)

Love it!

As Carbon said dont think its like a printer or fax machine. you gotta put skill and effort into it. Its a knock-off of the $2,000 rep-raps, i bought the wooden one because it was cheaper than the metal one and didnt need or expect 0.0000001 inch accuracy.

My machine has a SD card slot and can run totally on its own, even modding settings on its front panel. it also has that funny USB printer end and can be run in real time on a computer. having both options is nice, if your computer has funny things in the background interrupting the USB, then switch over to the SD-card.

I will give you three points of advice.

-First, Use "Simplify3D" it does everything, DXF to Printing. whole deal. its $140 free upgrades profound productivity.

-Second, Simplfy3D or other software can help you compensate for minor unavoidable defects. A expensive machine run poorly isnt better than a mid-cost machine run well.

-Third, buy one of these, a dial indicators and print a 45 degree base for it:

This one was $20. I have a $400 one from 1970, you dont need that. this way you can get each corner of the table at the same elevation for the first few passes. too deep and the nozzle drags on the table, too high and you just smear and not stick all over.

I buy from Taulman and Octave. Use good filament.

IamSmooth

Fri Nov 03 2017, 12:27AM

Registered Member #190 Joined: Fri Feb 17 2006, 12:00AM
Location:
Posts: 1567

Maker Gear

Moderator(s): Chris Russell, Noelle, Alex, Tesladownunder, Dave Marshall, Dave Billington, Bjørn, Steve Conner, Wolfram, Kizmo, Mads Barnkob