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Hey all - I thought I might post about my royer induction heater tank cap that I made. I was tired of seeing all the open air point to point construction, so I put together something more robust, and less likely to become damaged without being stuck inside a rigid enclosure. This was also mainly made with uniform current distribution in mind, as well as heat dissipation. The thermal limitations of the tank capacitor are some of the main constraints of the royer induction heater, so this is my personal solution.
Take 18 MKPs all rated well above your expected Vpeak, and arrange them as best you can like so.
And grab some 25 mil copper plating and make large electrodes for the arrangement.
Use thermal epoxy to glue the suckers in place.
Bend your respective pins to its corresponding electrode, and solder.
Add a terminal style of your choice in the center of each electrode. I chose a ring terminal so it could be soldered into the center hole easily, and then perfectly fitted for work coil copper tubing. These terminals are made for 1/4" studs, so I used 1/4" tubing for my work coil.
I think this design makes for a solid (heavy) MMC construction, and heat dissipation abilities - allowing the caps to sink heat to the plating via thermal epoxy, so they share the current load evenly and also the thermal load evenly. It also makes for an easy way to measure and monitor the temperature of your capacitor, so you can know if your royer induction heater's constraint needs a break. One should feel free to attach a CPU heatsink and fan to either or both electrodes, or even a water block if need be. The surface area this provides is a nice advantage. One should be able to scale this design up to accommodate any current load parameters that are needed.
I hope this can inspire someone to build a 2kW range royer induction heater!
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
A very nice piece of work. I plan on building one at some point, but I want a vacuum induction furnace. I guess the way to go is to use a ceramic chamber and have the work coil outside the vacuum chamber, as this avoids outgassing problems from the capacitors, etc., and also aids cooling, but I'm still working on the general layout.
Registered Member #3324
Joined: Sun Oct 17 2010, 06:57PM
Location:
Posts: 1276
Very nice, im no expert. but i would suggest removing those lugs and conneting it directly, nice big copper sheets and thick copper tube, only to limit it with a tiny tinned copper joint? Bah!
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
Thomas W wrote ...
Very nice, im no expert. but i would suggest removing those lugs and conneting it directly, nice big copper sheets and thick copper tube, only to limit it with a tiny tinned copper joint? Bah!
You could form the tubing into a circle and solder it directly to the copper sheet. This would assist cooling as well.
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