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Registered Member #1956
Joined: Wed Feb 04 2009, 01:22PM
Location: Jersey City
Posts: 172
I use soldering iron for all exposed pin packages. Lots of flux, a temperature controlled soldering iron with chisel tip and in no time you will be faster on smd than trough hole =)
Registered Member #3215
Joined: Sun Sept 19 2010, 08:42PM
Location:
Posts: 780
for dual in line packages, solder the pin 1 by leaving a blob of solder on the pad, place the pin in good alignment and heat, it will settle there easily... correct alignment if needed
solder the first pin of the other row, diagonal to the first one, to further stabilize the chip, then allow it to cool
you can then fully solder the rows by applying solder continuously while sliding the iron tip along the row of pins, to drown them in solder basically
if you get some practice, you'll learn the way to apply just enough solder so the blob of solder runs smoothly along the pins like a wave soldering and stays stuck to the iron tip once finished
if there is too much solder, you can always remove the solder afterwards and the needed quantity should stay by capillarity (especially with some braid)
Registered Member #65
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 06:43AM
Location:
Posts: 1155
$25 Kapton stencils And cheap paste... Get a tub of diluted flux to stick parts down given that even expensive paste also drys way too fast. For complex hand built stuff, we use a $1 store window squeegee cut to board width to stencil on the paste, and let it dry on purpose. We then dip each part in the sticky flux to push into the surface paste that no longer will smear.
Those guys on youtube must have good eyes, as a 100+ pin chip is difficult to align by hand.
Flux usually use alcohol as solvent, Vodka doesn't work too well as it contains water... but in a pinch you can pour off the separated liquids after an hour or so to use the flux again....
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SMD tips and tricks
