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Registered Member #543
Joined: Tue Feb 20 2007, 04:26PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4992
Sigurthr wrote ...
Ahh, thank you for the info, PM!
Sig, you absolutely can't go wrong if you follow the Mullard 'showcase' designs, which include everything from circuit diagrams, complete lists and specifications of parts, engineering drawings of chassis and front panel metal work with chassis punch and drill sizes required, PCB layouts for those that like them, with alternative classical point-to-point tagboard layouts, with the position of every R and C on the tagboards shown.
The Mullard Three Watt Economcal Stereophonic Amplifier is here:
The Mullard Ten Watt High Quality Stereophonic Amplifier circuit and constructional details is here:
The Mullard 5-20 Twenty Watt Amplifier is here:
These amplifiers were designed by the AF valves division of Mullard to show their valves performing at their very best, so if you follow their designs closely you can be certain of having a really good amplifier at the end of it.
Registered Member #3414
Joined: Sun Nov 14 2010, 05:05PM
Location: UK
Posts: 4245
I'd just like to add that unless you have a matched pair of output transformers and speakers, it's not worth considering a stereo amp.
I'm taking a different approach, in that I'm using what's available, and modifying Chris's 'Mighty Atom' circuit to suit. I won't consider building a stereo one until I have a suitable pair of output tranny's, etc.
Registered Member #1403
Joined: Tue Mar 18 2008, 06:05PM
Location: Denmark, Odense C
Posts: 1968
You do not have to use matched output tubes, even if you get matched tubes, after some hundred hours they are no longer matched.
This is why you have adjustable bias balance and build in some meters to monitor the anode current through measuring voltage drop over the cathode resistor.
If you are thinking about building a PP EL34 amplifier, the Mullard 5-20 is standard, but consider reading Claus Byrith excellent paper on modifying it to modern times and make up for some of its shortcomings.
Registered Member #96
Joined: Thu Feb 09 2006, 05:37PM
Location: CI, Earth
Posts: 4061
I found some nice "half C" cores in the flat screen inverters I dismantled.
Just a though Ash.
EDIT: A source of fine copper wire is dead analogue clocks from charity shops, for some reason they still can't seem to check them for leaking batteries.
Registered Member #230
Joined: Tue Feb 21 2006, 08:01PM
Location: Gracefield lower Hutt
Posts: 284
Why try to go to low impedance speakers. I have built electrostatic speakers with 0.25 (mil) mylar rubbed by hand with grahite to make the diapham and perforated plates for the two outer electrodes. Plates to the outer electrodes and the diaphram earthed is one way or connect the pushpull output to the diaphram and earth the outer perforated plates
sounds incredible bass could do with a sub woofer as mine were only 2 foot by 4 foot for the diaphrams
this appeared in the audio amateur magazine in the late seventies all credits go to Saunders who put up the original article.
Registered Member #3215
Joined: Sun Sept 19 2010, 08:42PM
Location:
Posts: 780
what is the quality of the sound you'd have?
if they are not as good as commercial low impedance speakers, I can't see the point of not using a crappy transformer with some crappy tubes
I'll have to try out the dirty one... I gathered parts for a dual PP 6080 with power toroids as output transformers, and I guess it would be as good as anything I'd be able to put out together out of tubes, as I have no experience about common best practices with tubes
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